Hydraulic clutch problems
 

I don’t have a problem with the weight of the clutch lever but I hate having to bleed the clutch every couple of hundred miles. The last ride i went out the lever came back to the bar but pumped up enough to disengage the drive after a frantic moment:o

As the slave cylinder looks original (1995 bike!) and all I’ve done to it is change the piston and seal (ongoing problem), will a new one fix the problem? Did they ever change the design, or should I buy one of those uprated units? Any suggestions would be welcome (the cheaper the better!)

I have a simular problem and it turned out to be the bearing that is in the presure plate it had seazed up, This caused the push rod to spin and of course spun the piston which in turn boiled the Clutch fluid and badda bing no clutch. Cost about £7 to fix

As Mr C said, had the same here and ruined a new lightweight unit only 1 week after replacing.

I got an uprated STM unit off Nelly at the BMF,absolutley fantastic,next to a slipper clutch it`s one of the best mods you can do,highly recommended:D:D

Agree with everyone so far.

I had the same on the 996 with the bearing seizing.
Also used the uprated slave cylinder to improve the clutch pull.

If it is a seized bearing it could also have worh the inside on the slave cylinder where the seal seats in so might not be/wont be a good seal for the piston seal against the cylinder?

Worth replacing if you can get one of the uprated slaves but the bearing would be my first check.

Hello

Roy748Bip I have/ had the same problem with the master cylinder,
and I made the mistake of replacing the master cylinder without checking the bearing on the pressure plate, as a result the pushrod was spinning and scored the cylinder resulting in a useless master cylinder, so if you do go for an oversized master cylinder make sure the pressure plate bearing is running freely, or for about £6 replace it. Maybe also check the pushrod as it maybe rubbing/wearing down. Take it to a dealers and ask them to compare.

good luck mate and keep us posted.

regards

TopiToo

[Edited on 15-07-1968 by TopiToo]

Thanks for the info, I’ve had this problem since I got the bike last year. I changed the pressure plate bearing (which was seized!) at the same time as putting the new seal and piston in the slave cylinder.

This cured the problem for about 5-600 miles but it came back with a vengeance. I’m thinking I may change the fluid to DOT 5.1 to increase the boiling point, I’m assuming the seals will be OK with this, has anyone else used this?

Sounds like the cylinder itself is knackered. Get a whole new one, either standard ducati or a lightweight one from Cornerspeed.
In my opinion trying to rebuild the old one is a false economy as the bore gets corroded and soon chews up your nice new seals etc. The type of fluid shouldnt matter.

I had this on my 748 - bearing replaced, seals replaced, cylinder replaced....it still didn't cure it!
Then..fitted a bleed banjo bolt at handlebar end and that cured it! Basically it's a pain getting air out of the line at the handlebar end if you haven't got a nipple there like on the later (brake) cylinders. Installing a Goodridge bleed bolt allows the air to be bled once and for all....IMHO.
R X

That`s true,the only way to bleed it properly without a banjo bleed bolt is to tip the bike on it`s side or remove the lever entirely,thou some people loosen the banjo fitting,never done it that way myself.