mcn set up guide
 

:sing:
any one out there get me a copyof mcn set up guide for 999,,, mines gone walkabouts..

thanks

Yep,its for the 'S' with Ohlins forks/shock.
10 stone rider.
front preload 7 turns out from full in.
front comp. 9 clicks out from full in.
front rebound 9 clicks out from full in.
rear preload 24mm thread above collar.
rear comp. 8 clicks out from full in.
rear rebound 20 clicks from full in.
14.5 stone rider,
front preload 6 turns from full in.
front comp. 8 clicks out from full in.
front rebound 9clicks out from full in.
rear preload 26mm thread above collar.
rear comp. 8 clicks out from full in.
rear rebound 21 clicks out from full in.

Happy twiddling!

set up
 

thanks ......:sing:

Set up
 

Missed this one completely. I have a 999s Biposta coming. Was the setup for the mono or biposta?:o

It was a monoposto.:)

suspension settings
 

Does anyone have fast road setting for a 999s biposta (14st rider)

thanks

Phil

I've done 5000 miles on my 999s Biposto, mainly in Northern Spain on fast smooth mountain roads.

I think my bike is set up pretty good for these type of roads, and ambient temperatures (25-30 deg C)

First thing with the 999s Biposto the rear spring is too stiff - you can't set the static rear sag - well you probably could if you weighed 17 stone plus!! I weigh 14 stone on a bad day, and allow a stone for my luggage rack.

Swap out the rear spring for the monoposto spec spring - this is an easy job - no special tools required - I think I paid £50 for the spring. You can then set the front and rear sag - I will post these at a later date when I remember what they are set too.

The damping adjustment is no more than 2 clicks from standard both front and rear, with the standard settings being pretty good from standard.

Again smooth surfaces will allow a little more damping, and you will find when you return to the UK you will probably have to back off the damping back to around the standatd settings.

I didn't change the rear ride height adjuster or trail adjustment on the headstock. I think the bike turns quick enough, without sacrificing high speed cornering stability. You may want to quicken the steering up for track use.

I run relatively low tyre pressures around 25 psi rear and 27 psi front at around 30 deg C ambient. Slightly higher for lower temps. This is personal preference, but I find you can get on the throttle quicker out of tight bends. Michelin reccomend higher pressures. Also remember that if you are riding hard, on fast twisty roads your effective working tyre pressure will be higher, than standard road riding.

I have never subscribed to the theory that you can just twizzle all the knobs to someone elses notes and hey presto!!

Best thing is to make one significant change, like wind the front rebound in 5 clicks - you will feel this when you ride and then back it off from there. Its only by experimentation that you really start to understand how suspension changes translate into what you feel when you ride the bike.

If you only do one thing, change the rear spring and set up the sag correctly.

Have fun!!

settings
 

Thanks for that JK2. I don't usually mess with settings as I haven't got enough knowledge. I had however dialled in some settings for my 998 BP from this forum and the bike was transformed.

regards

Phil

does it handle ok with pressures that low! im no expert but i would have thought it would move around and be hard to turn with pressures that low, even allowing for fast riding on hot roads.

You can debate tyre pressures and different tyre manufacturers till the cows come home. All Ican share with you is what has worked for me. Last year in June in Spain my rear tyre was running so hot you could have fried an egg on it!! (no pun intended to Mr & Mrs Fried Egg), set at 25 psi on my pressure gauge.

My mate's tyres on an Aprilla RSVR running Bridgestone 012SS, on the same pace, were running significantly cooler to the touch, and he had 30 psi in his rear tyre, similar in the front.

Similar bikes, power delivery, performance, weight etc...

The Bridgestones (012SS) and Michelins (cup sports) are both excellent tyres - yet behave very differently. I think you would find if you had measured the working pressure of both tyres, they would have been quite similar.

Also if you can get your tyre pressures optimised for a particular day you should get a slightly larger contact patch when the bike is cranked over, and hence the earlier discussion about being able to get on the throttle earlier, without the back end stepping out.

Don't get me wrong, I might find my bike would flick right to left quicker with higher pressures, but as most things its a compromise.

Again you need to experiment with your pressures, maybe on a track day or something, and see how you get on. Ambient temperatures / road temperatures do have a massive influence.

Go to any race mtg. and half the paddock will be debating about tyres, and whats worked on that particular day and what hasn't.

To put all this into prospective, my mind cannot process information any quicker, and I already use both sides of the road where safe to do so, and I don't want to die!!

Those are the limiting factors stopping me going any quicker, not my tyres / suspension settings or anything else.

Have fun with your pressure gauge!!