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Old 02-Nov-2005, 14:02
frazelli frazelli is offline
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Front wheel bearings

Anyone know how to fit a set of front wheel bearings??? Any advice would be gratefully recieved!
Regards Frazelli
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Old 02-Nov-2005, 15:43
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DSC Member Jools Jools is offline
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Don't think it's very different from an ST.

Just drop the wheel out, then you'll see the bearings on each side of the wheel and a spacer tube that runs between them. The spacer tube has actually got fins around it to keep it centred in the hub which makes it difficult to ease out of the way so that you can get a drift behind the bearing, but it should have a slot in one end.

So, you can normally get a long screwdriver, put it through the wheelbearing on the opposite side of the slot in the spacer, get the blade into the slot and gently tap the wheelbearing out. You'll need to keep turning the slot on the spacer so that you don't skew the bearing and get it jammed (but if you do this you can always tap it back and start again)

Once one bearing is out the spacer tube will just slide out and give you a big target on the back of the second bearing.

When I did mine I knocked the bearing on the opposite side to the speedo drive out first, then turned my attention to the speedo drive (which was a bit fiddly to get out as I recall.

To replace the bearing, just seat it in the hub and tap it home with a hammer. Some people get a large enough socket to cover the outer race of the bearing, but I've managed it just by tapping the outer race directly (Just make sure you only hit the outer race of the bearing). You don't need brute force either, just a gentle tap should do, just make sure to tap evenly all round the circumference of the bearing so that it doesn't skew on the way in, and just tap it flush
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Old 02-Nov-2005, 15:50
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I've never fitted a set to a 916/996/998 etc but I don't believe they are any different from anything else. You will need a long drift about 9-12" long, a length of 3/8" or 1/2 rod is ok. Lay the wheel on it's side and start by knocking out the bearing at the bottom. There is a tubular spacer between the bearings that will make it difficult for the drift to get a hold but by angling the drift so that it leans diagonally across the space you should be able to get a notch for it to bear on. Use a fairly heavy hammer, say 2lb and tap gently until the bearing just begins to move. Then turn the wheel or move the drift so that the drift is now contacting a patch 180 deg opposite and tap again. keep this up, rotating the contact point every mm or so until the bearing drops out the other side. Once the bearing starts to move you will find it much easier to get an edge for the drift to sit on.
When the first bearing comes out the spacer will come out behind it. Then turn the wheel over and knock the other bearing out. This should be quite straightforward but remember to keep rotating the point of contct for the drift so that the bearing comes out squarely.
Fitting the new ones is easy. Use a socket as a drift that is approximately the same diameter as the outer race of the bearings. Knock in one bearing until it is fully seated. Turn the wheel over and insert the spacer then knock in the second bearing until it is fully seated - job done.
Always make sure when removing the old bearings or fitting the new ones that they remain square in the housing.
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Old 02-Nov-2005, 16:46
frazelli frazelli is offline
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Thanks for the assistance chaps very much appreciated!
Regards Frazelli
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Old 02-Nov-2005, 17:41
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I have used a method similar to the above except as follows:
- Go to B&Q and buy a selection of "raw-bolts" (expanding sleeved bolts for fixing in concrete).
- Place a suitable sized raw-bolt into the bore of the bearing that you want to remove
- Tighten rawbolt so it expands in bore and is tightly held in bore
- using an old wheel spindle or suitable drift, tap bearing out from opposite side.

Hey presto - job done!

R X
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Old 02-Nov-2005, 20:41
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new bearings from our local Bolt & Bearing stockist cost me £5 each last time, which was about 2 months ago.
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