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Old 24-Jun-2004, 13:03
Phil Parratt Phil Parratt is offline
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ST2 Rear wheel removal

The time has come for a new rear tyre.

Can anyone advise me of the correct/recommended procedure for removing the rear wheel? The Owner's Manual is no help apart from the wheel nut torque setting.

I don't want to go at it 'blind' in case there are any 'hidden surprises'!

Any (sensible) advice much appreciated.
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Old 24-Jun-2004, 13:50
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DSC Member Jools Jools is offline
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No real secret. It's pretty easy to do with the bike just on the centre stand. If you've got the ride height jacked up like I have you might want to put a bit of 4 x 2 under the centre stand so the rear wheel is well clear of the floor.

Then get your socket (I think it's 42mm - but I can't be sure without running out to look in my toolbox). If you're really fussy, you might want to take your socket down to a machine shop and get them to turn the socket down to lose the bevel on the flats. The wheelnut is not very thick so getting the socket to fit really snug onto it by turning it down is a good idea otherwise the bevelled bit takes up about half the width of the nut and the socket is more likely to slip and round off the wheelnut a bit - I haven't bothered lathing my socket, but then again my wheelnuts are mullered.

Then I just undo one nut. I take the wheelnut and spacer thingy on the chain side off - but you can take your pick. I leave the spindle in at this point.

After that I undo both 12mm bolts on the chain adjusters fully, and push the wheel right forward as far as it will go to make the chain slack, then I rotate the wheel and ease the chain off the sprocket from the bottom.

Once the chain is off, I slide the wheel back again and remove the spindle. If it's been nicely greased you should be able to grab hold of the wheelnut and spacer that you didn't bother to remove and just pull, wriggle and shimmy it out. If it hasn't been well greased you'll need a block of wood to hold against the spindle (on the side you've removed the wheelnut from) and give the block of wood a few small taps with a hammer to drift the spindle out.

As the spindle comes out on the right hand side, you'll need to take the weight of the wheel, and also remember that the rear brake caliper is mounted on to the spindle (and held from twirling round by a peg on the swingarm), so as you remove the spindle you'll need to hold the caliper to stop it falling and potentially damaging the brake hose.

That's about it, except that the rear wheel has a conical spacer on the sprocket side, which I always forget to take out. It usually falls out as I push the loose wheel up the path on the way to the car.

Re-assembly, as they say, is the reverse of this.

Remember to give the spindle a good slathering with grease, before you put it back in.

Getting the rear brake caliper to stay where it's supposed to is a bit of a faff, as is getting everything lined up so the spindle can go through all the holes smoothly, but a bit of patient wriggling is usually all that's needed.

Put the chain back on and adjust it up with the wheelnuts just finger tight (remember to check that the adjusters have the same number of 'lines' each side so that you know the wheels in straight) then torque it up.

Ta da! Job done!
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Old 24-Jun-2004, 13:56
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rockhopper rockhopper is offline
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You shouldnt need to back off the adjusters, just pull the spindle out then push the wheel as far forwards as it will go. That should give enough slack to get the chain off. When you come to put it all back then you dont have to worry about tensioning the chain.

A big rubber hammer helps as well.
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Old 24-Jun-2004, 17:38
Phil Parratt Phil Parratt is offline
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Mood: Got the bike ready for my first visit to the TT and it then got cancelled!
Thanks gentlemen!

I now stand ready with a 42mm socket, a rubber hammer and a large tub of grease. The missus is starting to look worried.........
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Old 24-Jun-2004, 17:48
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Errrr...42mm?
That'll be for a single sided swingarm then will it?
The rear wheel nuts are 30mm ( at least they are on my 4S)
Andy
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Old 24-Jun-2004, 18:09
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rockhopper rockhopper is offline
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Think you could be right on that one Andrew.
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Old 02-Jul-2004, 12:05
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Yup its 30mm, I know that from painful experience as it's 2mm smaller than the clutch centre nut !!. Have to agree with Jools comment about machining away the front face of the socket for better engagement on the narrow nut, something I've been suggesting for ages. It really does help and I've done all my wheel nut sockets for 9*6/748, MV and ST.

Being a smart ass I took both front and rear wheel nut sockets when we did our ride down to Spain recently. Clutch centre nut came loose for no apparent reason while we were in the middle of nowhere and I smugly thought that one of the wheel nut sockets was bound to fit. Nope, both too small.

Another tip when you put the wheel back in is to check alignment independent of the marks on the swinging arm plates, they are often twisted and it makes a difference to the ride and chain wear if it all lines up spot on. We always had to do this when we was boys as there weren't fancy adjusters on our old Brit bikes.
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Old 02-Jul-2004, 12:56
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Anyone have problems with the pressed steel bits where the alignment marks are bending and rotating when you tighten up the wheel nut? My near side one does this everytime and i've got a scratched swing arm to prove it.
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Old 02-Jul-2004, 13:40
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rushjob
Errrr...42mm?
That'll be for a single sided swingarm then will it?
The rear wheel nuts are 30mm ( at least they are on my 4S)
Andy

All right, all right...I did say I'd have to run out to my toolbox to be sure

But you're right about those triangular wheel alignment spacers Rockhopper. Getting them to stop twisting and marking your swingarm as you torque everything up is nigh on impossible.

Then again the ST2 and ST4 swingarm is the worst bit of the entire bike IMHO. Look what you get on the rest of the bike...USD forks, Brembos, nice trellis frame, gutsy V-twin...then a shonky old bit of cheap looking steel section as a swingarm. The paint on it is wafer thin as well, mine's rubbed through even where the hugger vibrates.

Even though they're lovely shiny things I don't want to go for a Metmachex swingarm. £500 swingarm when the bikes only worth £3K? Nope, that would be overinvestment in my book.

So, just keep scouring the breakers and eBay for an ST4S or Monster S4 ally one I suppose....missed one a while back that went for £75...just after I'd spent £600 on the CSS and couldn't get another penny for the bike fund from the chancellor.
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Old 02-Jul-2004, 19:36
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DSC Member Paul James Paul James is offline
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Does the ally version from the Monster have a better means of wheel alignment ?. It is because tose poxy bits bend that I always check wheel alignment with the old two planks or a bit of string. The two planks have been upgraded now to a couple of lengths of dead straight box section aluminium.
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