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Old 01-Sep-2005, 11:15 PM
aka.eric aka.eric is offline
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Bleeding Hell!

Started putting fluid back in 888,using Mityvac,clutch no problem.Front brakes refuse to obey,bubbles stop,but theres a constant fizzing.Took out bleed screws,wrapped threads in PTFE.Tried manual bleeding,still spongy lever that comes back to the bars.Tried cracking the banjo at master cylinder,no change.Any ideas please.The brake fluid that has just passed through,saved in a jar,can I use it again
Tried to show the "fizzing"in pic,Ive never seen it before.
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Old 01-Sep-2005, 11:22 PM
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Carbon749 Carbon749 is offline
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You should be ok using the fluid again as long as it new and clean and you don't leave it lying around overnight .... hydroscopic and it will absorb water from the atmosphere which will boil when the brakes get hot and let off "steam" in to the fluid. This will then leave air in the system.

As for the bleeding, try opening the nipple 3/4 turn, pull the brake lever back and hold it back. before you release it tighten the nipple back up. Let the lever go. Repeat this a few times. Just opening the nipple and pumping the brake lever can trap air and pump the air backwards and forwards.

[Edited on 1-9-2005 by Carbon749]
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Old 02-Sep-2005, 12:43 AM
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I've had a similar prob with the 6 pot brakes on my TD bike I've still not resolved. I even went so far as to set the whole system individually - plugged the end of the master cylinder: solid at the lever straight away.
Master tied into each brake one side at a time - still solid.
Both line tied into master cylinder, first 5mm of piston travel is soft but then gets better, without managing to ever feel 'solid' and confindence inspiring.I think a banjo bolt (with a built in bleed nipple) on the master cylinder will help.
I've seen the fizzing before when using my Mittyvac and wondered if I was pulling too much vacuum and actually drawing air in past the caliper seals?

Good luck - Frank
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Old 02-Sep-2005, 01:30 AM
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RightSaidFred RightSaidFred is offline
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Had this with mine. It was a horryfiying discovery what the problem was.
The banjos on the ends of the lines (goodrich) were anodised alloy ones. The alloy corrodes electrolytically with the steel of the line and the olive inside. The corrosion gets so bad, it swells inside the banjo and cracks the outer casing. This was then drawing in air for the 'fizzing' but not enough to actually leak fluid out. New lines = problem solved.
These alloy banjos are banned now by the way!
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Old 02-Sep-2005, 12:19 PM
aka.eric aka.eric is offline
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Any recommendations for replacement brake lines,HEL,Goodridge etc,where to get them from.Tried Demon Tweeks but of course 888 isnt on their lists.Read threads re:-Radial master cylinders what size bore,ratio is best,19mm bore X 18 ratio?
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Old 02-Sep-2005, 03:31 PM
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RightSaidFred RightSaidFred is offline
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Mood: I AM looking forward to racing..
I've raced with Hel lines for years, they're great. The kit you get is lovely too, lines with bolts and washers, all you need, plus they're cheaper than the others, what more could you want? I bought a 888 kit from here for 52 squids:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=7980148 408

They're away until the 17th though.
I also have the Brembo 19 x 18 master cyl and it works perfectly, just the right amount of movement/feel.

Cheers
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Old 02-Sep-2005, 06:14 PM
aka.eric aka.eric is offline
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-Sep-2005, 09:12 PM
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either M&P or busters were advertising Goodridge hoses for 9.99 each !!!
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Old 02-Sep-2005, 10:47 PM
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Jasper Jasper is offline
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HEL fo rme too.Fantastic lines,superb service.I've changed calipers three times,sent them the lines for new ends and theyv'e just sent me brand new lines with the correct ends for nothing.You cannot beat that.
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