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Old 26-Jul-2005, 01:05
ahab ahab is offline
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Performance Chip Fitting

Hi

Probably a stupid question, but I have bought a performance chip
secondhand for my ST2 and it has no instructions for fitting.

I wondered if someone could briefly explain how to fit the chip please.

Also sometimes the oil warning light comes on after a ride when the bike is stood with the engine running, it has oil, any ideas? If I blip the throttle the light goes out.

Thanks in advance
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Old 26-Jul-2005, 02:33
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DSC Member Shazaam! Shazaam! is offline
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The engine control unit (ECU) has a access hole covered by a removable rubber bung. Note that the Eprom chip has a notch on one side, so note its location on the installed chip before removal so that you don’t install the new one backwards. Using a chip-puller will make removal easier. Wait at least a minute after shutting off the bike before you pull the chip to let the computer do some housekeeping.

Take care to not bend any of the 28 pins when inserting them. Slightly inserting 14 on one side first, and springing them to insert the other side into their sockets is the way I did it. The clue that you have it right is the fuel pump firing up when you turn on the ignition key.

If you have a idling problem after installing the new chip, the best approach is to have your dealer re-adjust the exhaust emissions CO level. Or you can adjust it yourself. There's a CO trimmer screw adjustment on ECUs that provides for limited changes in fuel mixture at idle (with lesser effects across the RPM range).

The trimmer on your model is a potentiometer located next to the EPROM chip socket inside the ECU. It has a range of about 3/4 turn, so be careful, if you try to turn it more, it'll break off. When you rotate the trimmer screw clockwise, the injector's duration is shortened so the mixture is leaned. Counterclockwise gives a richer fuel mixture. The default position is it's rotation mid-point. The trimmer adds/subtracts a millisecond or so to each fuel pulse over the entire RPM range. So go easy, an eighth-turn on the screw is often all that's usually needed to cure low-speed rideability problems.

Always a good measure of fuel mixture is to check the color of the inside of the tailpipe. After a few hundred miles it should be medium-to-dark gray, not black or sooty.

The oil warning light tells you when the oil pressure is low.

The pressure is always lowest when the oil pump is at its slowest at idle and when the oil viscosity is the lowest (when its hot after a good run) so that's when it'll first come on. Try a higher viscosity 50W synthetic oil if you haven't already to raise the pressure a little.

Also, the Ducati oil pressure sending units are somewhat unreliable and often need replacerment, but keep in mind that if your oil pressure light starts coming-on above idle speed don't run the engine until you diagnose the problem.

[Edited on 7-26-2005 by Shazaam!]
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Old 26-Jul-2005, 22:33
ahab ahab is offline
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Now confused

Hi

I opened the rubber bung and am now confused.

There is a yellow silicone? square which I assume has the chip under, but it seems to have a silicon blob at each end which seem to be holding it down. Is this some sort of cover for the chip?

Sorry.

Have attached photo to show what is there, to see if this helps

Thanks again
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Old 26-Jul-2005, 22:46
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Rushjob Rushjob is offline
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Mood: :-)
Yep...that will be your original factory chip.
You now need to carefully pick away the silicon before you can remove the chip...it will be caged in a whiteish plastic frame which most people discard wheninstalling the new one.
Go for it...I did!.
Cheers
Andy
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Old 01-Aug-2005, 08:26
Dunks Dunks is offline
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What does the replacement chip to do for the bikes performance?

Just curious...
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Old 01-Aug-2005, 09:42
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rockhopper rockhopper is offline
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I couldnt find anyone who did chips for ST2's when i had mine (apart from the really expensive ones).
Dunks, the idea is that the new chip alters the fueling etc to allow for changes you have made to the bike like open cans etc.
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Old 01-Aug-2005, 11:15
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phil_h phil_h is offline
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ahab, you dont say where you are - if you have probs, or are cautious, there is sure to be someone who would pop over if they knew it was local.

The other big tip for people is _not_ to wear rubber gloves when you are doing it - as you can build up a larger static charge that way. If you have bare hands then you automatically earth yourself on the ecu cover while 'poking about' in it

Phil
(BSc Elec Eng)
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Old 01-Aug-2005, 13:21
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DSC Member Jools Jools is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dunks
What does the replacement chip to do for the bikes performance?

Just curious...

Dunks,

Rockhopper is right, the chip itself will do precious little for the bike's performance, it's the other mods like fitting freer flowwing cans (rather than the standard ones with a restrictive cat in them) and opening up the airbox that will free up a few more gee-gees. If you do those things the bike will need a bit more fuel at certain points of the fuel map and that's what the chip tells the ECU to do.

As I say, fitting the chip alone won't do much at all. Having said that, even if you fit the whole kit and caboodle you may not notice much difference. My bike has DP exhausts and an opened up airbox plus a JHP chip. My mate Glyns is standard, we're both around the same weight and his bike is just as quick as mine with no mods at all.

Mine sounds nicer though
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Old 02-Aug-2005, 02:03
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Glyn Glyn is offline
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Mood: st2......we can rebuild
and now that ive plugged the coil lead back in that i dicovered was hanging out when we did the belts.

its a lot damn quicker
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