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  #21  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 13:56
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Try these from Section8 Superbikes Tech pages. Getting the rear ride height right makes a huge difference to the way a 748/916 turns

http://www.section8superbike.com/748...suspension.htm

http://www.section8superbike.com/suspensionsetup.htm
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  #22  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 15:42
L3OONY L3OONY is offline
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Thanks for all the info.

One thing that has become apparent is that even though I've reset my suspension to standard, the front struts do not have the inserts poking through at the same height as the picture in skidlids following attachement.

Where the strut ends in a red collar, there is a further insert poking through by about 20mm by the looks of things.

If I remember correctly, these are only out as far as the base of the milled section below the blue collar, and do not show any of the rings that can be seen in this photo (fig 1).

I am I missing something really obvious here?

[Edited on 1-6-2005 by L3OONY]

[Edited on 1-6-2005 by L3OONY]
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  #23  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 16:00
desmojen desmojen is offline
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Yep, that shows that you have the preload maxed out, ie. fully as hard as it will go. Not good.
You need to set it up so that the static sag is correct, I think about 10mm but I am sure someone will clarify. Having it so stiff will push up the front end (relative to the rear) and cause slower steering and weight transfer to the rear. Like I said, not good.
The way to set it is this:
Get a mate round, a strong one or even better, two.
Put bike on rear stand.
Get mates to lift front end clear of the floor and measure the extension of your forks ( the distance of the shiny part that is showing)
Put bike back on floor and re measure.
The difference between the two is your static sag.
I cant remember exactly but I think around 20mm is good.
You adjust the distance by altering the pre load on top of the forks (that's the big nut on the top)
If the sag is too much wind it in (stiffen) If it's too little wind it out (soften)
This will give you a good starting point.

You can do the same with the rear shock but instead of measuring the shock itself, you measure from the rear wheel nut to a point on the seat unit. You need around 10mm on the rear. Just put a pen mark on it or something like that.

If you do that and get your ride height sorted you should notice a difference.
Phew, my hands ache now!

[Edited on 1-6-2005 by desmojen]
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  #24  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 16:19
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Twinfan Twinfan is offline
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Yep, that's what it should be like. I reckon it'll put all the weight transfer onto the rear shock too, making it sit down too much. Low rear, high front, naff steering.

You say you've put the bike back to standard suspension settings, but if the preload is so far out you clearly haven't. I'd check everything again if I were you - preload, compression, rebound, drop through the yokes and steering head angle for the front forks. Rear end is preload, compression, rebound and ride height.
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  #25  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 16:35
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L3oony it looks like your bike isn't set up very well, Unless you are very heavy those pre-load adjusters should not be wound right in as all they really are is front ride height adjusters, once the fork springs are tempered there is nothing you can do about the spring rate, if you can't get the correct amount of sag for your body weight then the springs should be changed.
I take it this is partly how the bike came to you and may say something about the previous owner. Personally I would sort out the front and rear ride heights to get the weight bias right.
Which area are you in as there should be somebody near by in the club that could help, if you say Oxfordshire then arrange for me to check it out.
Along with my 916 and 998 Hybrid I also have a GSXR600K2 and a R6 so I know how they compare, yes the 600s turn with less effort but thy don't turn that much quicker.
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  #26  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 16:38
L3OONY L3OONY is offline
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Thanks

I'm in Cambridge.

When I was setting the clicky bits back to factory setting (they were massively out) I did wonder about this bit but it didn't make a lot of it in the manual, only about turning the top with a screw driver (which I did).

Looks like I've managed to miss a fairly fundamental part of the suspension setting here!

Is it simply a matter of putting a spanner on the top and turning it or there more to the adjstment than that?
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  #27  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 16:51
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Also see Harv748 advert for rear ride height tools, as I previously mentioned this setting makes a huge difference to how your bike turns, not everybody runs the same setting I run 242mm and always set my bike to that.
At the price he is asking it could be a good investment if you are going to have the bike a while and end up playing with final drive gearing
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  #28  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 16:51
desmojen desmojen is offline
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It's not so far from Cambridge to Oxford Loony, I'd strongly suggest a visit to uncle Skids to get it sorted.
Take some choccy biccies with you as a bribe!
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  #29  
Old 01-Jun-2005, 16:52
L3OONY L3OONY is offline
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Then this weekend you will find me mainly tinkering with my suspension.

A massive, huge thanks to everyone who has offered help and/or advice, I really was getting to the point of no return.

I will post back on here once I've had a play, and hopefully you'll spot me easily - I'll have the bloody great big grin!!!

[If this doesn't work, you'll then find me somewhere on the road to Oxford. You'll spot me as I'll be laden down with biccies and unable to corner particularly fast!]

Thanks again



:s ing:
:b ouncy:

[Edited on 1-6-2005 by L3OONY]
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  #30  
Old 02-Jun-2005, 19:36
L3OONY L3OONY is offline
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Sorry, just had another thought...

If the suspension is so far off factory, in all likelihood the rear is going to be all messed up too.

Is there an idiots guide to checking the rear, and adjusting it if necessary?
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