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Old 03-Dec-2005, 02:17
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philthy philthy is offline
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help would be appreciated

I'd appreciate advice on the following please;

My 1989 851 ( 15k ) has now been laid up for about 2 years. I have been firing her up every now and then, but have been advised by Woods of Abergele and also on the message board not to do so, due to belts hardening and subsequent risk of piston / valve contact if they snap while running.

I was going to have shims set and belts renewed at Woods, but I won't be able to ride for another few months at least, so I may as well wait for the work to be done when I can get back on the road.

My questions are;

1. The oil has not been changed during this time, and I seem to vaguely remember being told that acids are present in used oils and can damage the engine if left standing.

Should I therefore do a '' cold '' engine oil and filter change and then turn the engine over by hand with the bike in gear to try and get some oil onto the bearing surfaces?

2. The coolant has not been changed for 8 years. Can I just drain and replace, or does it need certain hoses to be removed while filling to stop air locks which might leave some parts of the system unprotected?.

Also, is there a recommended coolant to use when re filling?

This has been nagging away at the back of my mind for a while now and I would like to start the new year with one less worry!

Thanks in advance

Phil
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Old 03-Dec-2005, 02:26
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nelly nelly is offline
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In the scale of things, I'd leave the oil until the engine can be run up and gotten hot. you'll get a "cleaner" change by doing that.
I'd suggest maybe filling with a semi-synthetic or even quality mineral, running for say 500 or so miles and changing again. The new oil will have additives to clean the engine out. similar to a flushing oil but a lot safer.

You can drain the coolant. I'd flush through then take the hoses off and the rad and flush through thoroughly.
When it's all back together refill with coolant, and again run for say 500 miles and change again.
I mix my own coolant up using distilled water and a quality anti-freeze. 50/50
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Old 03-Dec-2005, 15:46
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philthy philthy is offline
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Thanks for the advice nelly.

I will do the coolant over the Christmas break and book her in to Woods now for the shims / belts in early march.

Phil

[Edited on 3-12-2005 by philthy]
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Old 05-Dec-2005, 08:02
loony888 loony888 is offline
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remember when you change the coolant it will be necessary to bleed the system, the easiest way is to pull a hose off to drain the circuit completely, replace and refill. taking the rad out and back flushing is a good idea too. when you refill the system run it on the sidestand with the cap off until the thermostat opens. you will see bubbles and the level will drop, you can rev the engine and the pump will cause the coolant to flow faster,this is a good way to be sure the thermostat is indeed open. then leave the bike on the sidestand with the cap off until it's cold. then top up, add the cap and ride, job done.
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Old 05-Dec-2005, 10:14
851neil 851neil is offline
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Have fun with it Phil - oh btw - nice meeting you fella.
cheers

Neil
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