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Old 09-May-2006, 23:53
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RightSaidFred RightSaidFred is offline
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Mood: I AM looking forward to racing..
More expert comment respectfully required please!

I have a set of Ohlins SP4 forks and yokes in my T8.
This week is the first time i've had a chance to get the bike out and go a bit mad. And the forks have a problem.
Basically, it's like 'mega stiction.' If you hold the front brake on and pump the front end up and down quite vigourously with the bike stationary they go up and down ok. But if you try and move them up and down gently it's like they're locked solid. You have to push really quite hard to get them to give and move.
When the bike is ridden they give ok at low speed (low speed as in fork movement and not road speed) but have no real high speed movement, and hence just chatter off ripples.
I've backed the compression and rebound right off to no avail. Incidentally, the adjusters seem to have a good effect, from right off to right on is a big difference, as I would expect.
Not sure what may be up. If anyone has ANY info about these forks (type, model number, set up or manual, known faults etc etc.) I would be eternally grateful, as I know not much about these. Also, how do I adjust the preload? I undid the blue anodised nuts at the top but can't seem to work out what it's all about.
Cheers chaps.
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Old 10-May-2006, 06:15
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Ains. Ains. is offline
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Mood: He's not happy {:o( He's back at sea!
You might have full on race springs in there. Mine are rock hard for road use and sound as a pound on a nice smooth. track.

Ains.
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Old 10-May-2006, 07:51
851neil 851neil is offline
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Mood: need a bike...
yup sounds like stiff springs...
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Old 10-May-2006, 10:16
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philthy philthy is offline
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I had the same problem with my 851. It too had been raced and must have been set up for a 20 stone rider. As I'm only 10 and a half stone wringing wet this was a big problem. It was like there was no suspension at all on the front end.

I took mine to Maxtons who fitted softer springs and re worked the forks. The bike was transformed beyond imagination.

If you can get in touch with Ohlins or a suspension specialist they should be able to give you advice as to which rate of springs to buy.

It'll be worth every penny!
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Old 10-May-2006, 10:22
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DSC Member Jools Jools is offline
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Hmmmm...suspension...It's a bit of a black art isn't it. Personally, I would be tempted to book it in at K-tech and have them set up/rebuild/revalve the suspension with your weight and the intended purpose of the bike in mind.

That's what I'll be doing as soon as I get some spare cash on the grounds that I'll get better suspension for me by fettling my standard Showas than going down the Ohlins route.

Though of course if I could afford Ohlins and the fettling of 'em that would be favourite
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Old 10-May-2006, 10:32
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Redsps Redsps is offline
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Had the same prob with mine, very little action at low speed with small bumps etc, might as well of been rigid forks,but they worked well at high speed though.
spent some time with adjustments etc which paid off, work nicely now.
time well spent for me.
take some time to get them back to standard setting etc to start with, then begin fine tuning.

ta
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Old 10-May-2006, 19:30
Mr. R Mr. R is offline
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Ah susspension the black art, over 30 years of riding,still can't get my head around it. Sent my forks to Ron Williams at Maxton,told my weight,bikes weight,type of wheels used etc and how the bike is used. Result FANTASTIC highly recomended

Steve
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Old 10-May-2006, 23:17
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phil911 phil911 is offline
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Mr. R said : "FANTASTIC" !!!

Sounds great but did he tell you exactly what has been changed into yours ???
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Old 10-May-2006, 23:25
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weeveetwin weeveetwin is offline
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Fred

These are Ohlins FG9050 forks. Here are the recommended settings:

Damping adjustment (allen-screw on fork top) has 20 clicks of adjustment. It should be screwed fully in then backed-off to a point between 9 - 12 clicks to suit.

Compression adjustment (using longish 5mm ball-ended allen wrench through the hole in the forward facing edge of the lower fork). Again, this has 20 clicks of adjustment, and should be screwed in fully clockwise, and then backed-off to a point between 6 - 16 clicks.

Preload (adjust by turning the threaded rod onto which the blue nuts are screwed). Slacken the upper blue nut (it's only a lock-nut) and turn the threaded centre rod with a 13mm wrench. It's impossible to see how far anything has moved (it's all happening internally), but there's only just over a half inch of preload adjustment on these forks anyway, so 15 full turns clockwise will mean its reached its limit. (each full turn equates to 0.04") Don't expect to feel a positive 'stop' though - there isn't one! Just count the turns.
I then just turn each rod anti-clockwise an equal amount until the preload suits me. Finally, tighten the upper blue lock-nut.

Steve
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Old 12-May-2006, 18:40
Mr. R Mr. R is offline
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Hi Phill, All i have is sheet of paper giving the air gap and what sae of oil to use when servicing the forks,same for my bevel forks they also work realy well.
Sorry i can't be of any more help, but Ron is the man for me!

More "TT" wins than any other suspension guru, i think.

Steve
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