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  #11  
Old 15-Apr-2006, 15:15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Harv748
Any other ideas...I'm starting to get a bit peeved with it now...I wanna go ride!!!


Is it coz it's 2 feet under water???

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  #12  
Old 15-Apr-2006, 15:38
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Quote:
Originally posted by domski
Quote:
Originally posted by Harv748
Any other ideas...I'm starting to get a bit peeved with it now...I wanna go ride!!!


Is it coz it's 2 feet under water???


Right now I'm tempted to take it to the same place as the DR and drown it!!!
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Old 15-Apr-2006, 15:39
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Quote:
Originally posted by keefer
are you sure nothing is amiss under the crank case cover ?

I'm starting to think thats all it can be...

How can I test simply if I am getting any voltage from the windings etc...can I put a meter across the two wires from the stator whilst the engine is running? What kind of reading should I get if i did? Is this likely to kill me?

[Edited on 15-4-2006 by Harv748]
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  #14  
Old 15-Apr-2006, 15:54
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Mood: Found a CR250. Let the bone braking begin
in short I don't know.
it should be kicking out something.
but like you I don't know if it will give you a jab or blow your tester ?
maybe ask Nelly.
that would be my next step though.
sounds like your not getting anything and if you have just replaced the rectifier then under that cover is the next port of call.
good luck
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  #15  
Old 15-Apr-2006, 16:51
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Harv ,If you do that you must switch the meter to AC. You can get up to 110v AC (thats for bikes after 1999 Before that its 130v . Tap into one of the Yellow wires with the meter (Pos) and earth the other Neg from meter onto the bike frame . Should get some reading if its working. Plug your tester on Onms plug into the yellow wires and it should be inbetween 02-04 ohms Electrics are the arse to fathom some times. Because you may need the battery off to get at the wires you may have to rig an extension from the battery to the main battery cables.



[Edited on 15-4-2006 by Fordie]
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Old 18-Apr-2006, 12:58
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Bump...any other input on this one before I chuck the thing in the frigggin' skip?
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  #17  
Old 18-Apr-2006, 13:38
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Make sure the alternator fuse is OK. That's the big (30A?) one in a little holder on the front of the battery, near the starter solenoid.
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  #18  
Old 18-Apr-2006, 14:41
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sounds like the Alternator to me - I had the same on my 748 - you can put a meter across the leads from the Alternator to check it - ask Nelly or someone technical.

I did this and it was shagged!

Bought one off the internet - half price and brand new!

Khushy
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  #19  
Old 18-Apr-2006, 15:23
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How did you do that measurment Khush?

Was it as Fordie describes above?

I'm just a bit worried about either shagging the electrics by doing something stupid myself or electricuting myself!

The big 30 A fuse is OK...

[Edited on 18-4-2006 by Harv748]
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  #20  
Old 18-Apr-2006, 15:56
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Firstly check that the 30A fuse between the charging system and the battery hasn't blown. If that's OK disconnect the yellow alternator wires and check the ouput.
If you have a 2 wire (single phase) alternator connect your meter, set for AC volts across the 2 wires and start the bike. You should get approx 15V per 1000rpm. ie 45V at 3000rpm etc.
If it is a 3-wire (3-phase) alternator connect the meter across any 2 wires and start the bike. Again you should get an AC reading, I don't know the figures to expect but I would think maybe 10V per 1000rpm. Then disconnect ONE meter wire and move it to the other alternator wire. You should get a similar output as the first pair. Finally move the OTHER meter wire back to the first alternator wire. Once again you should see a similar output.
If all 3 phases produce the same or very nearly the same output then the alternator is OK. If any one phase produces significantly less than the others then it is duff.
Finally whether a single phase or a 3 phase NONE of the windings should make a connection to earth.
I don't know if any of the above makes sense to you but I'm happy to explain further if needed.
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