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  #11  
Old 07-May-2015, 01:40 PM
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r15suk r15suk is offline
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Possibly have answered my own question, but I have never heard of fitting an Oberon to cause this issue?!? I chucked my old slave away so I can't swap it over to try. I can borrow one but its from a later model and I have heard that they are different in some way?

Simon
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  #12  
Old 07-May-2015, 03:05 PM
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The problem is that there are a lot of variables at play, and any one, or combination of them, could be causing the issue:

Master cylinder push-rod adjustment (adjusts initial push point)
Master cylinder span adjuster (allows more fluid to push)
Slave cylinder piston size (defines how much fluid flows with lever travel)
Clutch stack height (defines biting point, resistance, etc)
Clutch pressure plate (defines spring height/preload)
Springs (defines preload, resistance, etc)
Spring caps (defines preload, spring height, etc)

then you have things like wear and tear - clutch friction material, basket tangs, inner hub wear, springs going out of spec, air/water in fluid, etc!

Changing a few of these at once can sometimes make a small problem in each into one big problem, so you're better off reversing as many changes as possible and adding bits one at a time.

For the clutch slave, later ones (recessed star pattern) will work fine with early bikes anyway.


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  #13  
Old 08-May-2015, 10:18 PM
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r15suk r15suk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antonye
The problem is that there are a lot of variables at play, and any one, or combination of them, could be causing the issue:

Master cylinder push-rod adjustment (adjusts initial push point)
Master cylinder span adjuster (allows more fluid to push)
Slave cylinder piston size (defines how much fluid flows with lever travel)
Clutch stack height (defines biting point, resistance, etc)
Clutch pressure plate (defines spring height/preload)
Springs (defines preload, resistance, etc)
Spring caps (defines preload, spring height, etc)

then you have things like wear and tear - clutch friction material, basket tangs, inner hub wear, springs going out of spec, air/water in fluid, etc!

Changing a few of these at once can sometimes make a small problem in each into one big problem, so you're better off reversing as many changes as possible and adding bits one at a time.

For the clutch slave, later ones (recessed star pattern) will work fine with early bikes anyway.

Thanks for this info.

My clutch plates are only about 600 miles old and the stack height is correct, so I know i'm all right there.

I put the old lever back and made sure the push rod adjustment was correct and the issue was still there so I know it's not that.

As you suggest I will try and do it one step at a time.

Cheers
Simon
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