At least by having to strip the engine I found that it has the forged pistons and not the cast ones. I filled the combustion chamber with WD40 and tiltted it so that it all pooled over the inlet valve, left it for a while and when I came back none of it had leaked by the valve seat. Looking at the very shiney inlet valve it looks as if it may be a new one, I wonder what I will find when I drop the engine out and remove the vertical cylinder. But before I get to that stage I want to run the engine to check the horizontal cylinder has stopped spewing oil and is running a lot quieter.
Nearly two months since I added the last entry, Not a lot as gone on for the majority of that time, but the last week has been fairly productive. I will try and add a more detailed account later. Here is a pic of the bike as it stood this morning, engine sounds healthy and is just as it came from a crashed 600 Monster. Budget is also lloking very good with around £1400 tied up in the bike so far.
Correct Dom, its not actually grafted on yet, still thinking about it. I have marked out where to trim it so it doesnt protrude in front of the seat. I was also thinkung of cutting the base to get it to sit over the original seat pad, its either that or make a subframe to support the fibreglass base and give me something to mount it to. The rear light, indicators etc are still fitted at the moment just incase I decide on some road testing. As for the dash I have a nice Stack Clubman 200 sat on the shelf its meant to go on my CBR600 but I found out yesterday I can program it for the amount of cyliders so I am considering using it especially as I always found the shift light handy when racing the 600. Its either that or I was thinking of using the pulse to one of the coils to trigger a FET and use a 916 tacho which would obviously be very easy to mount.
Looking good kev. Just one thing that I noticed. It looks real low on the front end. When you give them brakes a good handfull, you sure the fairing front won't hit the front fender?
It is close Jon, in the picture there is 95mm between the fork dust seal and the casting on the bottom of the fork leg. Between the fairing and the mudgaurd there is only 75mm but I currently have 20mm of fork protruding. I have not measured the static sag yet but the front does feel a bit soft, I know with the top of the forks flush with the top yoke I will be just about OK, but I do hope to improve on set up to give a little bit more adjustment/clearance. failing that I can re-jig my front bracket to gain a bit more clearance.