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Old 18-Apr-2011, 02:26 PM
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M600 clutch issue

When I took my little monster DD bike down to Brands I could hear what I would describe as a whine when dropping from 5th gear down to 4th. I also had an issue in that when cold the clutch was ok, but get the bike warm and suddenly the clutch lever had to be pulled all the way back to the bar.

At Mallory the same noise was obvious when going into the hairpin. When releasing the clutch there was the whine again and then ok. The same when dropping to fourth for gerrards as well, in would come the whine after releasing the lever.

Before I start I want to know what I am letting myself in for. I am guessing the clutch plates will need to come out and be inspected visually for discolouration and also measured for wear?
However when I have had worn plates the clutch has been consistant is there some way that pressure may be building up but not returning after the lever is released or the other way round. Just seems like the clutch is slipping when I disengage it when hot, but when cold the point when you release it is in a sensible position.
Cheers
Mark
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Old 07-May-2011, 02:00 PM
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I have been fiddeling with the bike again. After selecting first if I ease out the clutch lever to about an inch away from the bar then we are off and away. This seems to early, if the lever has about three inches of reach I want the clutch to be disengaged closer to when the lever is fully out.

Is there a way of adjusting the catch point?

I have also inspected the slave cylinder for leaks and the fluid does seem to go both ways. It all seams ok.

Are all monster (wet) clutch baskets the same?
Is the adjustment issue likely to be plates / springs?

Cheers
Mark
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Old 19-Mar-2012, 11:15 PM
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DSC Member brummydave brummydave is offline
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Mark i have seen this prob a couple of times ,you need to correctly bleed the clutch, and then do it again !!!the problem is air stuck in the casing end,it gets hot expands and causes all sorts of problems from total loss of clutch to early engagement.I found it is easier to back bleed the clutch through the bleed nipple with an easy bleed or similar (i use a 12v screen washer pump) also leaving the lever tied back to the bars overnight helps it to self bleed.
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Old 19-Mar-2012, 11:32 PM
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Dave I'm hoping he had this sorted by now, 10 months and several races later


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Old 20-Mar-2012, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skidlids
Dave I'm hoping he had this sorted by now, 10 months and several races later

I would have thought so. However time runs away and I still have this problem, and it never seems to get better. I stop the engine in the holding area if I am there early. If I dont then the added heat of waiting in the holding area is enough to reposition the biting point of the clutch when we line up for the off.

I did replace the plates and re-bleed but no better. Will give it some more bleeding to see if that helps.

Many thanks
Mark
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Old 21-Mar-2012, 12:33 AM
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DSC Member kiwicoops kiwicoops is offline
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Was wondering what happened in the 3rd race, I crashed out, and looking at result sheet you didn't finish either? was it mechanical or were you off?

pete


"Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him power". Abraham Lincoln ...53 horse power should do it
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Old 21-Mar-2012, 09:32 AM
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I retired due to lack of physical fitness and what turned out later to be the start of man flu.

Will be back and fighting fit for Snetterton
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Old 21-Mar-2012, 10:31 PM
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DSC Member kiwicoops kiwicoops is offline
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ok, your probably over the worst of it, but if I can put in my 5penny worth, Berocca's a healthy antidepressant + hot honey and fresh lemon drinks for sore throats. see you at Snetterton.

pete


"Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him power". Abraham Lincoln ...53 horse power should do it
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