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  #11  
Old 02-Jul-2012, 23:18
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And to replace the gear selector its handy to have a Alternator holding tool, a 30mm Socket and a Torque Wrench capable of going up to 190nM


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  #12  
Old 03-Jul-2012, 05:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skidlids
Brian while you had it apart did you check it was all centred OK as there are two points of adjustment

Usually the cause, incorrect adjustment. Also tight linkage and splinted lever position.
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  #13  
Old 03-Jul-2012, 10:40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost
Usually the cause, incorrect adjustment. Also tight linkage and splinted lever position.

I'd see a doctor about that Phil.
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  #14  
Old 03-Jul-2012, 15:28
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Originally Posted by dunlop0_1
I'd see a doctor about that Phil.


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  #15  
Old 04-Jul-2012, 22:50
batesy2 batesy2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skidlids
Brian while you had it apart did you check it was all centred OK as there are two points of adjustment
No i didnt. so il whip it off again just to check,I have a Haynes,Will the method be detailed in there?
Again thanks for your help Kev.
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  #16  
Old 04-Jul-2012, 23:18
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Yes Brian the Haynes manual covers it quite well, nice pic of centreing using a ruler and the use of scribed lines to check up and down movement is equal


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  #17  
Old 17-Sep-2012, 12:17
Spjallen Spjallen is offline
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Think I might be having a do with this too. Bugger.

Last edited by Spjallen : 07-Jan-2013 at 11:34.
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  #18  
Old 18-Sep-2012, 00:41
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Originally Posted by Spjallen
Think I might be having a do wit this too. Bugger.

Well worth getting the problem sorted, it certainly improved my lap times once I got it fixed


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  #19  
Old 20-Dec-2012, 09:34
Spjallen Spjallen is offline
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Do you have to take the clutch out too? The Haynes manual suggests that.
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  #20  
Old 20-Dec-2012, 10:33
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Originally Posted by Spjallen
Do you have to take the clutch out too? The Haynes manual suggests that.

Not for the Part I changed, just the left hand engine casing and the Alternator


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