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Old 06-Jul-2003, 19:26
Haley Haley is offline
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Chain on my 748

Ive just changed my rear sprocket from a 38T to a 40T and have had real trouble getting the correct tension on the chain (its a 520 chain with 94 links) i have no idea how old the chain is but its seen better days thats for sure!!!!It has a couple of tight spots in it and is also i would guess a little stretched, so that has what's made it a B**tard to get it right, i had about 6 attempts and still wasnt happy with it when i put it away

So chaps i think its time for a new chain, the questions are.......

What brand of chain do i go for, AFAM, DID etc?

Also do i stick with a standard 94 link chain or do i go for the 96 link?(i.e will i struggle to get the new 94link chain on with the new gearing setup?)

Its on a 748Bip with 14T front and 40T rear.

Any recommendation's/help would be very much appreciated

Thanks

Darren
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Old 07-Jul-2003, 11:42
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andyb andyb is offline
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Firstly IMHO 40t is too large. 38 is about right.
secondly i would fit a did erv gold chain, as good as it gets.
thirdly, you want to get a slightly longer chain so you can set it to be correctly adjusted with the eccentric sitting at around 7 o clock when viewed from the wheel side. This will lengthen the wheel base.
On this issue i spoke to JHP at Mallory, he said the ultimate wheelbase is achieved when you can get as near to 500mm from swinging arm pivot to the wheel centre.
Unfortunatly you will need a longer swinging arm to achieve 500mm, ytou can however get 485mm by positioning the eccentric as discused.
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Old 07-Jul-2003, 11:49
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Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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Chains

Fitted a new Tsubaki HD Gold X ring chain to my 748bip, with standard gearing. Cost approx £65 from DSC member Mike Davies who runs Robsom Racing. Highly recommended...looks great and not to pricey. I think chains are down to personal choice. I've heard from some people who swear by DID...yet others who wouldn't touch them after hearing/experiencing failures etc. You pay yer money....

With the larger rear sprocket on you'll probably need 96 or 98 links I guess.

Its funny, but when I fitted my new one, it shortened the wheel base dramatically (probably because the old one had stretched so much!). I ended up adding a couple of extra links to enable me to push the eccentric hub right back...which made an unbelieveable difference to the handling.

What I'l trying to say is whichever chain you choose/fit...when its on and tightened to the correct tension, aim for the hub to be in the 4 oclock position (when viewed from the chain side), allowing for the maximum wheel base length , but also for some adjustment in the future. This may mean adding/removing links to get it spot on?

I'm sure others will be able to be more accurate with the No. of links required.

This has been covered on numerous occasions in the past, so try a search on this and the old board.
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Old 07-Jul-2003, 12:34
ST4 ST4 is offline
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Isnt it more likely that the difference in handling was down to the ride height changing due to the ecentric adjusters being in a different position rather than the increace in wheelbase?

Paul.
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Old 07-Jul-2003, 12:40
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Harv748 Harv748 is offline
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Yeah...maybe

I think it was a combination of both...as my new unmodified chain meant that the hub was at the 8 oclock position (from the wheel side)....which...I think...compared to 4 oclock (the new position) isn't that different in terms of ride height. But I get your point.

In my particular instance I think it was more to do with wheel base as I also run with the steeper head angle.

Steep head angle + short wheel base = new pants for me please

[Edited on 7-7-2003 by Harv748]
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Old 07-Jul-2003, 13:35
Totto Totto is offline
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Tihis formula will work out the chain lenght
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Old 08-Jul-2003, 12:24
Haley Haley is offline
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Thanks Chaps, ive ordered a 520, 96 link AFAM chain that i think should do the job.

Much appreciated as ever

Darren
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