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Old 18-Jan-2014, 13:50
serious4play serious4play is offline
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2011 848 evo cam belt help

Hi,
i have a 2011 848 evo which requires a cam belt change, just want to check if the cam belt change is the same as the pre evo 848?
Anything i should be aware of prior to completeing, and do i need any special tools?
Also i have changed belts in jap bikes before with auto tensioners i see the duke uses a manual tensioner that requires "tuning" is this difficult to do and is there software or an app i can download that would help carry out this procedure, im crap on computers so this could be the most difficult bit of the change for me!!!
Any info would be great also if someone has a vid or pics of the full procedure would be fantastic
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Old 18-Jan-2014, 14:07
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DSC Region Organiser skidlids skidlids is offline
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i haven't done a 848 Yet but suspect it's similar to my 998 where you are supposed to use a cam locking tool (just as some cars do) and I use the official factory kit for tensioning the belts these days, although there are several frequency based tools on the market these days and some programs that you can run on a PC with the aid of a suitable microphone


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Old 18-Jan-2014, 19:02
serious4play serious4play is offline
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Hi Skid,
i have the cam locking tools they were cheap, i need to get a crank locking tool as well, i believe. Do you know which frequency based tools are good?
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Old 19-Jan-2014, 09:32
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DSC Region Organiser skidlids skidlids is offline
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I used a Gates STT-1 before I got hold of the factory kit
Gates also do the U-507 which is probably better but I came across the STT-1 first at a reasonable price

I always liked the look of this one
http://motoreva.com/item.cfm?itemid=111&categoryid=171


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Old 19-Jan-2014, 14:26
serious4play serious4play is offline
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Skid I'm going with genuine belts but have seen a facom belt tensioner online. Have you any experience of these. I also see a bergen one at a more competitive price. Want to be sure its right!!!
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Old 20-Jan-2014, 10:18
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nelly nelly is offline
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The manual tensioners don't work too well on the later motors. Use the frequency method. you're looking for 110Hz between the bottom pulleys and the fixed idler.
If you're looking at buying the equipment, I'd weigh up costs vs. having it done. belts are their own don't take too long and you could strip most of the bodywork etc. yourself.
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