Ducati Sporting Club UK > Model Specific - Discussion, Technical Problems and Help > Sport Touring: ST4 / ST3 / ST2 > ST4S Mods

[eskimo]

I need to get my Ohlins shock recondition, l have been told l need a lighter weight spring for my 13 stone body fully leather up.

But this got me thinking, can the front forks be improved?

And is it worth fitting a steering damper,as it does seem a bit flighty over the ton

I am not bothered about engine mods, l am really after any mods that will improve the handling.

It would be nice to hear from other ST4s owners, their thoughts on the the ST handling, l find it need loads more input than the VFR's l use to owned, but is very rewarding when you get it right

Also the Swinging arm bush, l have not check it yet, but should l change it anyway, the bike has done 25,000 miles

TIA

[johnny]

I would very much doubt many people would be good enough to find the limits of an ST4s on a track and certainly on the road. You say it needs more input, have you lowered the rear wheel? This makes a big difference.

But if you have not done that then it should not be flitty at the ton. Mine has been lowered and is rock solid at 100 +. What changes have you made to the suspension settings? Out of the box they are set soft.

Last guy to service my bike said "it handles well" and he is a club racer.

Set up correctly a S would run rings around a VFR

[eskimo]

Originally Posted by johnny

I would very much doubt many people would be good enough to find the limits of an ST4s on a track and certainly on the road. You say it needs more input, have you lowered the rear wheel? This makes a big difference.

But if you have not done that then it should not be flitty at the ton. Mine has been lowered and is rock solid at 100 +. What changes have you made to the suspension settings? Out of the box they are set soft.

Last guy to service my bike said "it handles well" and he is a club racer.

Set up correctly a S would run rings around a VFR

I not saying mine handles badly, yes it does handle better than a VFR, but l have to move around on the bike more than a VFR, to get the best out of it, hard to explain really

The bike was set up at Snells for my body weight,they told me the spring was to strong for my weight, and adjusted it the best they could.

When you say lower the rear wheel, do you mean shorten the shock/to adjust the ride height????

I assume Snells had to lengthen the spring to make it softer for me

So could fitting the new Spring for my weight transform the bike

[nelly]

General rule of thumb with the ST's is to increase the rear ride to the point where the rear tyre just touches the floor when the bike is on the centre stand....... seems to work a treat. Makes turn in easier/sharper.

As with all things suspension, make sure everything is at stock settings to begin with so you know where you're working from. Preload, damping etc.

[eskimo]

Originally Posted by nelly

General rule of thumb with the ST's is to increase the rear ride to the point where the rear tyre just touches the floor when the bike is on the centre stand....... seems to work a treat. Makes turn in easier/sharper.

As with all things suspension, make sure everything is at stock settings to begin with so you know where you're working from. Preload, damping etc.

Now l understand Lowering the rear wheel.

Mine has quite a bit of clearance below the rear wheel.

So this seems to make sense,as mine needs a bit of persuading, to turn in.

[nelly]

yep. same thing only different
Try that along with suspension settings at stock and go from there.

[John W]

Snells may have adjusted your preload, which won't alter the length of the shock when on the centre stand, but may affect the static sag.
you adjust the ride height using the aluminium link rod. Its a b@stard to get to the bottom end of this, but is well worth adjusting it. Doing so also affects the sag.

I have no doubt that my ST4S handles every bit as good, if not better than both the 996 and 998 I had, and it is miles better than a VFR in all respects (power, turn in, brakes).

Tyres play a big part too in sensitivity and turn in speed.
Do you ride with panniers or a top box ?
Top box if loaded up really can get a weave on, especially if solo with it fitted. Its because the weight is so far back.

I think I ride my bike quite hard (difficult to compare with others I've not ridden with), and its as stable as anything cornering at anything up to 140, solo or fully loaded and 2 up. Let the rear tyre pressure pressure get a little low and it starts to 'porpoise' in the bends.

Oh, and I'm a lardy 16 stone.
Hope thats of some help.

Cheers,
John.

[eskimo]

Originally Posted by John W

Snells may have adjusted your preload, which won't alter the length of the shock when on the centre stand, but may affect the static sag.
you adjust the ride height using the aluminium link rod. Its a b@stard to get to the bottom end of this, but is well worth adjusting it. Doing so also affects the sag.

I have no doubt that my ST4S handles every bit as good, if not better than both the 996 and 998 I had, and it is miles better than a VFR in all respects (power, turn in, brakes).

Tyres play a big part too in sensitivity and turn in speed.
Do you ride with panniers or a top box ?
Top box if loaded up really can get a weave on, especially if solo with it fitted. Its because the weight is so far back.

I think I ride my bike quite hard (difficult to compare with others I've not ridden with), and its as stable as anything cornering at anything up to 140, solo or fully loaded and 2 up. Let the rear tyre pressure pressure get a little low and it starts to 'porpoise' in the bends.

Oh, and I'm a lardy 16 stone.
Hope thats of some help.

Cheers,
John.

Thanks for that, guess what l will be doing today

But gaining a extra 3 stone might be a little more difficult

Re Tyre Pressures, l run 32 F 34 R what does every one else run??

[eskimo]

Got the linkage off as the lock nuts would not move, the jaws of the 19 mm spanners are now 20mm
So l have just giving it to my mate in a local garage, see if he can heat it up or something?
Maybe that is why no one else has adjusted it, as it looks to be as short as it can be.

[mc31@york.ac.uk]

I'd like to agree with some of the replies to this and add a bit more..

There's no way on earth that an ST should ever be described as "flighty over the ton". The opposite is the case in my experience - they are much more planted than many other machines. These are the last bikes on earth to need a steering damper.
I believe your ride height is wrong and as mentioned can easily be altered, but over playing with the 3 rear suspension settings can make a real dogs' breakfast of it. If not sure, then go back to manufacturers standard settings (printed in the owners manual) and slowly take it up from there.

The non-fango standard hard luggage will set a small weave up over 125 (due to aerodynamics - not weight), but they are only rated up to 80 anyway, so anything over that and it's on your own head.

I also find tyre pressures really critical on an ST & I think you should try harder settings. My minimum is 36 all round and often 38 F and up to 42 R if two up or riding boring motorways for large miles.

I've ridden VFR's and in comparison I nearly fell asleep with the dullness of them.
The ST will turn fairly slowly if only leaning to steer compared with using oppsite lock steering - then all complaints disappear.

Hope this gives you something to think about and play with.

All the best,
Mike Chadwick