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  #21  
Old 12-Oct-2005, 19:49
Gizmo Gizmo is offline
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Originally posted by galaxy
If you leave the wheel and fork assembly all together, you should be able to just loosen everything up and let it slide through together. Then both tubes would stay even, hu?? As far as torqueing everything back down, do you guys use a specific value or just a "feel" thing?? I would think you want them tight but guess you don't over do it.

Wonder how much difference I would feel going from 3 lines already to 4??

its easy enough to move one leg at a time, i think its ending up sounding a bit complicated worrying about whether it moves up or down reality is it'll slide easily. If you put it on an Abba stand take weight off front with a hoist to garage roof and move handlebar down then reclamp it before loosening anything it'll be fine.

the torque settings i use are here the handlebar is wrong, its a single bolt not double so no 1:2:1 tightening sequence needed. don't overtighten anything, the fork tubes can ovalize and the bar clamp can break, use a torque wrench which is in 1nm increments

whether you can feel 5mm is down to the rider, your sag could be 5mm too soft and you'd then have the same headangle anyway, oops sorry confusing things again.
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  #22  
Old 12-Oct-2005, 21:39
galaxy galaxy is offline
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Speaking of how forks come set from the factory...I was at my local dealer the other day and they had 8 SBK's of different variety (one 749r and two 999s included) and every last one of them was different with anywhere from no lines showing to one had 4 1/2 showing. The spring preload varied just as much. And it wasn't like all the 749's were the same and the 999's were the same...they were all off. Guess they just throw them together and send them out. Also noticed for the first time the difference in the top of the Ohlins forks. Do they adjust preload with the little nut on the top? Oh yea, and how come 999s gets Ohlins and radial brakes but 749s doesn't. That's not fair!! Guess it's about cost and targeting a different market.
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  #23  
Old 12-Oct-2005, 23:02
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Twinfan Twinfan is offline
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If you put Ohlins on the 749S it would cost more than a base 999 - doesn't fit the pricing structure.

I reckon the Showas are almost as good anyway...
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  #24  
Old 12-Oct-2005, 23:20
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mark749s mark749s is offline
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twinfan
give it a set up its not as bad as you would expect, i did not fancy doing mine "but you only live once" i had my trials and tribulations but am glad i gave it a go and as the boys say I could always put it back

Mark
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Old 13-Oct-2005, 20:55
soloman soloman is offline
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Geez, sounds like you had a nightmare Mark?

Just about to embark on setting my 749s up as per section 8 guidelines, however i have just fitted a 41 tooth rear sprocket with the standard chain. This has brought the rear wheel forward by about 5-10mm and the bike now feels like it turns a little quicker than before!

Can any of you guys out there advise?
will dropping the forks through to 4 lines make the bike too unstable? would it be better to fit a new chain to maintain the 500mm pivot to axle length?
does anyone know where to buy a rear pre-load adjuster?

cheers all,
steve
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  #26  
Old 13-Oct-2005, 22:15
Gizmo Gizmo is offline
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Originally posted by soloman
Geez, sounds like you had a nightmare Mark?

Just about to embark on setting my 749s up as per section 8 guidelines, however i have just fitted a 41 tooth rear sprocket with the standard chain. This has brought the rear wheel forward by about 5-10mm and the bike now feels like it turns a little quicker than before!

Can any of you guys out there advise?
will dropping the forks through to 4 lines make the bike too unstable? would it be better to fit a new chain to maintain the 500mm pivot to axle length?
does anyone know where to buy a rear pre-load adjuster?

cheers all,
steve

moving tear wheel forward reduces available wheel travel and alters leverage ratio by a tiny amount as well. I'd doubt its so significant as to make the bike too unstable although it might feel quicker handling, the 749/999 is a much more stable geometry than a 748/9xx anyway..

Try K tech for a preload adpator, they are showa importer and service centre, personally i wouldnt bother, it adds weight and means you need a spring compressor to remove or change rear spring. i've got one on my multi as its handy if i have a pillion on but not on the 999.
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