I work for a major oil company, 1 of the top 4 in world. Please, take it from me that you are much better servicing with a top quality oil at a good dealer and letting your bike warm up properly over the first few miles before "going for it".
I can assure you that the major oil companies spend a lot of money, and I mean a lot, developing engine oils which have a careful balance of additives that are designed to lubricate and protect your engine. After all the development work, engine testing and gaining manufacturers approvals I can not understand any one that would throw in an additive made by a third party who have no idea about what engine or more importantly what engine oil you have.
The other thing to consider is the warranty. If you have a failure Ducati may not (and don’t have to) honor the claim if you have used an additive in the oil. As for back up, any major oil company underwrites its lubricants when used in the right application, put an additive in the oil and the back up from the oil manufacturer goes out the window.
The key point is using a good quality oil that carries approvals rather than an oil that meets the requirements of a manufacturer. High spec car oils are generally no good for bikes due to the wet clutch and the friction modifiers used in the oil, however, with a dry clutch you don't have that problem.
Sorry if I sound like I'm preaching, but, I'm just dead set against oil additives.
Mood: R U thinking what I'm thinking?......Oh dear!
I'm not really one to go for "snake oil" remedies but I used Slick 50 in a Lotus engine that had a reputation for being as reliable as a two bob watch. On several occasions in competition the temp gauge was off the too hot end of the scale and the oil pressure zero due to surge. The engine kept going and never went bang or ran its bearings like you think it should have done. Luck or the "additive" I'll never know.
Following on from this, has anyone read the article in this weeks MCN from the Castrol boys on how to warm your bike up properly? Evidently, letting a bike tick over first thing for a few minutes is a BIG no no!
Mood: My Jota goes rumpety rump! & I have my wife exactly where she wants me!
I have used slick 50 in my high powered (performance!) Ford fiesta 1.8 Diesel and it definitly made the engine run smoother, but I fully agree withe above that you should just stick to then recommended oils.
Hi, Always been told that you should start the bike up and let it idle for no more than the time it takes to put your helmet on. Ride off ASAP and knock the choke off if you used it to start the bike. For the first 4 or 5 mile keep rev's below 3,000rpm ish. Once bike up to temp .... pin it
With a Ducati quattrovalvole, especially after it has sat around for a while, oil can take up to 90 seconds to arrive. The Ducati oil delivery system has no one-way valve so as the bike sits unused the oil retreats slowly to the sump. When you start the engine the oil has to come all the way back up the long oil lines, it is not going to get there appreciably quicker if you rev it. The cams will not notice any difference if you are sitting 'off load' or are trying to ride it; but you do have some choices that will make life easier for the valve gear.
The first choice is the number of revs the engine suffers while the rockers wait for their oil supply. The engine can tick over at 1,200 RPM and bash the rocker surface 900 times in 90 seconds while the oil comes up. Or you can run it at 4,000 RPM; and the rockers will get bashed 3,000 times, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to work out that the cam follower is going to prefer the lesser of the two evils.