Timing Belts

[Spjallen]

Looking for new belts. Oem Ducati ones seem okay price wise, but does anyone use anything different and why?

[skidlids]

I know Andy Pike has been using others on his own bike, think he said they were the Dayco ones working out around £44 a pair

I've been using genuine ones that now cost me about £10 more for a pair

[dunlop0_1]

Recently got a set for Louise's M600 £52 delivered from Ducati leeds. :)

[skidlids]

Is that thr round tooth or square tooth Neil
MotoRapido are doing the square tooth belts for a 583 for £37 a pair delivered

[Spjallen]

Can you use 583 belts on a ss 620? They are much cheaper.

[dunlop0_1]

Is that thr round tooth or square tooth Neil
MotoRapido are doing the square tooth belts for a 583 for £37 a pair delivered


Round tooth Kev. For some reason the early square ones are cheaper?

[dunlop0_1]

Can you use 583 belts on a ss 620? They are much cheaper.


If memory serves Simon I think the same belts fit the 620 and later 600 & 750. :D

[Spjallen]

Thanks Guys. Dayco are apparently are used by Ducati as oem. Going on eBay for just less than £43 pounds for two, moto Rapidio want £73 with dsc discount. If they are good enough for Andy Pike, then they are good enough for me! Standby for loads of posts on timing belt fitting!

[skidlids]

If memory serves Simon I think the same belts fit the 620 and later 600 & 750. :D

Yep they are same width and same amount of teeth. The later belts as listed for the 620 cost about another £20 and from what I once read this is because they have a new formula in their make-up that reduces the the adhesion level between the belt and the pulley.

In some cases Ducati belts are on there third generation as they have been improved over time, but that doesn't mean you can't use earlier version apart from the Non Kevlar ones they did for the 916 etc with the white writing on them

And I would advise against using the square tooth belts on pulleys designed for belts with round teeth,

[SeeleyG50]

Er, Kev's getting old :) The ones I use are Flennor, not Dayco. £32 a pair from memory. They work fine, but seem to be slightly more heavily constructed than OEM (Gates) belts. I'm certain the Dayco ones will be fine too, after all, the belts are being changed so often on the racers, that wear & ageing issues are not a factor. Just don't run them too tight.

[Spjallen]

I've bought them now, I'm sure they'll be fine. Seems a fairly simple job, line up the dots, belts off, belts on and tension. I'm sure it can't be that easy I must be missing something. Any tips?

[dunlop0_1]

When all the dots are lined up only the horizontal belt is at TDC
Make sure you turn the vertical belt to TDC before you tension it. :D

Turn it all over by hand and re check the tension.

[Spjallen]

How do you know the vertical cylinder is at tdc? I think its with the fly wheel and window on the alternator cover, I've just had the flywheel off doing the gear change lever and did not line anything up when I put it back on. I'm thinking oh *h*t! Why do you have to turn it to tdc before tensioning?

[skidlids]

How do you know the vertical cylinder is at tdc? Not the just lining up the dots on that one? Why do you have to turn it to tdc before tensioning?

Its good practice to do them both at TDC, take the plugs out to see when the vertical piston is approaching TDC also makes turning the engine a lot easier

Turn the engine with the back wheel with the bike in gear on a paddock stand,
TDC Timing marks can be seen on the flywheel through the window in the alternator cover

[Spjallen]

Think I've worked it out. The flywheel has a punch mark which I should have aligned with the crank. Pants!!

[dunlop0_1]

Think I've worked it out. The flywheel has a punch mark which I should have aligned with the crank. Pants!!

You could leave if you want. Line the pully dots up and fit the belts. Tension the horizontal belt. Stick a straw in the spark plug hole of the vertical belt. Turn the engine by hand/wheel until tdc is reached, your best guess will do. The dot on the pully will be roughly around 5 oclock. Tension the belt.

Basically it's to avoid getting a false tension on the belt because the helper springs can apply some pressure on the belt if it's not a tdc.

[Ghost]

Don't forget that there are two TDC's per cycle firing and exhaust. Really will pee you off if you time time it on the exhaust stroke.:eek: :D

[Spjallen]

Thanks Pieman. Ghost, you're not helping!! :)

[dunlop0_1]

You have compression stroke up to tdc (Combustion / both valves fully closed) this is the one you want.

Then the exhaust stroke which at tdc would have the exhaust valve open/closing ish.

Something like that anyway
:D

[Ghost]

I don't get a false tension, cos I throw those silly hindrance springs away. I have a bucket full of them if anyone needs any. :D :o

[dunlop0_1]

I don't get a false tension, cos I throw those silly hindrance springs away. I have a bucket full of them if anyone needs any. :D :o


and how many pistons have you gone through. ;) :lol:

[Ghost]

and how many pistons have you gone through. ;) :lol:

Only melted one through naff oil, Sunlite Vegetable oil is no use at all. Even tho' it looked like I was Cooking a BBQ. :D

[dunlop0_1]

Only melted one through naff oil, Sunlite Vegetable oil is no use at all. Even tho' it looked like I was Cooking a BBQ. :D

PMSL