rear brake 748

[robo75uk]

got problems with rear brake keep losing presure had a new cylinder fitted 2 weeks ago done about 150 miles its gone again. seems like it needs bleeding any ideas cheers]:(

[ath748]

Didn't know they had a rear brake!! ;)

Mine's only ever worked for the first few presses, combination of heat build up in the hose round the back of the engine and general Ducati rear rake crappiness.

Interested to read the answers though to this often posted subject...

Ade.

[m1keyp]

If you replaced your rerar caliper you probably wasted your money.

Whatever you do they do not work.

Get yourself a speed bleeder from the states

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

At least it makes the job easy:lol:

[Edited on 28-9-2005 by m1keyp]

[Dave G]

Mine did that too,Nelly replaced it for me but now the new one also does it,though to be fair its sat for a year unused,apparantly the relative position of the caliper and master cylinder to each other doesnt help.

[Fordie]

Dont want to **** on the fire but my rear brake on the 996 will lock up and is quite effective. I use the rear often so may be that helps. Use it or lose it. Strip it down,give it a good clean get rid of any shiny/polished bits on the pads with emery paper,give it a serious bleed whilst changing the fluid. If it works after that . Keep using it to keep it in good nick. How the hell do you get it through the MOT if the rear brake does'nt work ? 4D

[Edited on 28-9-2005 by Fordie]

[bolds]

If it helps my brother fitted a 999 rear caliper as he uses his rear brake a lot and it is twice as good as the old one(bigger pistons i think)

[sheeny748]

sounds like the same problem i had mate. the hose itself was faulty and was weeping where the line joined the rear fitting.

[sheeny748]

forgot 2 say, my rear brake works brilliantly,make sure you take the caliper off and bleed it with the bleed nipple facing upwards. you will struggle to bleed it properly in situ. hope this helps.

[ath748]

Originally posted by Fordie
Dont want to **** on the fire but my rear brake on the 996 will lock up and is quite effective. I use the rear often so may be that helps. Use it or lose it. Strip it down,give it a good clean get rid of any shiny/polished bits on the pads with emery paper,give it a serious bleed whilst changing the fluid. If it works after that . Keep using it to keep it in good nick. How the hell do you get it through the MOT if the rear brake does'nt work ? 4D

[Edited on 28-9-2005 by Fordie]

It quite rightly failed the MOT first time, so I took it to Pro Twins who kindly bled the fekker and it worked fine for the 3 or 4 presses required to pass the MOT. :D Simple.

I have not felt the need for it out on the road, and now it's been a year or so without it. It's a bit of a shock when I get on the missus' Daytona for a spin though..... :o

Ade.

[Edited on 29-9-2005 by ath748]

[moto748]

This has often cropped up before. General consensus is, they're not very good to start with, and soon lose pressure. The amount of travel in the pedal can increase alarmingly!

FWIW, my two-penn'rth is, bleed it properly (I use a Mityvac, some, as posted above, favour the speed-bleeder thingeys). Anyway, make sure you get the bleed nipple above the reservoir. Personally I hook it round the near-side pillion footrest.

When it the travel is minimal and it's good and hard, you ca help keep it that way by wedging a old socket/piece of wood/whatever between the pedal and the frame boss above whilst the bike's not in use, to force the brake "on".