oil change...

[paologray]

Hi guys...
About to change the engine oil, to see if it makes the clutch bite more...
What should I use to flush the old stuff out with? Ive been told not to use petrol or diesel, cos it knackers something??

Paul

[antonye]

If you want to improve your clutch, put an extra plate in! A lot of us in the DD series did this last year. I presume you've bled and cleaned the clutch master cylinder and line as well, as this will help? You may also need to change to a braided clutch line as the oem rubber ones will be knackered by now and bulge under pressure, reducing the amount of fluid that engages the clutch.

If you drain the oil, take the clutch side cover off and give everything a good clean while you're there. You'll see milky gunk if the clutch seal is leaking into the engine casing, so you'll need to sort that too.

HTH

[paologray]

uh... does anyone have a spare plate??

[twpd]

There's no need to flush the oil out. Get the motor nice and hot by taking it for a run.

I haven't changed the oil on an ss yet so, I don't know if it also has a gauze filter in addition to the cartridge filter - if it does then don't forget to clean that as well.

I'm not sure what you mean by bite more....

However, in addition to what has already been mentioned it's a good idea to check that the clutch pushrod is clean and then re-grease it.

[t5mission]

Yes it does. Screws in the rhs of the engine.

[antonye]

Depending on the vintage, there is no push rod as such (not a through-the-engine type one anyway) as the slave cylinder is built into the clutch casing.

I believe most 600SS bikes are this style.

[Carbon749]

Originally posted by paologray
Hi guys...
About to change the engine oil, to see if it makes the clutch bite more...
What should I use to flush the old stuff out with? Ive been told not to use petrol or diesel, cos it knackers something??

Paul

F*** don't flush with fuel ... in fact don't flush with anything.

I'm gonna be very controversial now, if you do flush with anything use new engine oil of the same brand and viscosity as you intend to use in normal use.

I work for a major oil company and can guarantee that we spend in excess of £100,000 carrying out engine tests etc when we develop an engine oil. Then some one comes along with a £5.99 can of flush, dumps it in the engine and hopes that any residue they leave behind will mix with the fully developed engine oil and all will be OK.

Correct engine oils will have a dispersant and detergent additive pack. The dispersant will keep large lumps of debris forming and keep them in suspension in the oil. The detergent will help keep the internals clean. Please do not F*** with this carefully blended package.

If you use a major brand oil and change at regular intervals there will be no need to use "Snake Oil" flushes and additives.

You have already had the best advice. Run the engine till warm and drop the oil while it is warm. If you feel the need to flush the engine then change the filter and fill with new oil. Do a 100mile blast and do another oil and filter change. That way you know the residue from the flush will mix with the new oil without any problems.


OK, time to park up my high horse and get off it :D

[Edited on 1-2-2006 by Carbon749]

[mark749s]

totally agree with you Mr Carbon
if you wash out the oil you are in the poo


Mark