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View Full Version : The "servo" starting.........


andyb
25-Feb-2006, 21:12
hmmm, since ive put my bike back together it doesnt seem to start as per the servo starting ie touch the button and away it goes until it runs.

Now at a cough of a start it stops turning.............

Any ideas? Where are any of the electrical gizmos to do with this?

Gizmo
25-Feb-2006, 21:33
Originally posted by andyb
hmmm, since ive put my bike back together it doesnt seem to start as per the servo starting ie touch the button and away it goes until it runs.

Now at a cough of a start it stops turning.............

Any ideas? Where are any of the electrical gizmos to do with this?

have you swapped cpu's Andy??

andyb
25-Feb-2006, 21:57
No not at all......

KeefyB
26-Feb-2006, 06:21
Everything is controlled by the CPU.All the starter button does is send a signal to the CPU and tell it to start the bike.I would double check all your wiring connections,..especially the multipin plugs.

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 09:38
I must admit that does seem the obvious route, although i didnt need to dissconnect that much at all. Ive had it running.........its just now it seems to turn a couple of compression strokes and then stop turning. I am on my 3rd battery in 18 months................and it is similar to the symptoms to last time i needed a new battery...

[Edited on 26-2-2006 by andyb]

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 09:49
On page 46 of my owners manual is says..........."If the system is flat it will automatically stop the starter turning over!"

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 11:10
THe wiring is quite clever really, as soon as you disconnect anything like the ambient temp connector or the connector on the oil level/pressure, it illuminates the yellow eng light on the dash!

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 12:05
Read an old link from shazzam...........i might look to geet a ytz7S battery. same shape/size as the yt12b-bs std but a higher cold crank!! They call them High crank batteries......... anyone got one?

KeefyB
26-Feb-2006, 16:36
Aaah yeah,the battery!!
I forgot that my old 999 bip did exactly the same thing.New battery under warranty cured it.

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 16:54
Originally posted by KeefyB
Aaah yeah,the battery!!
I forgot that my old 999 bip did exactly the same thing.New battery under warranty cured it.

What were your symptoms then mate?

KeefyB
26-Feb-2006, 17:37
Poor starting.
It would turn the motor over once or twice then give up.Even with an Optimate connected the starting was poor.When the ignition was first turned on the battery voltage was around 12.2v.
Once the bike had started,the voltage leaped up to around 14v.Battery just would'nt hold its charge.
New battery cured it.

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 17:41
Yeah my display shows 12.3v and ive had the optimate on. All i get it switch on the fuel pump wurrrrs, presss start, it turns once a bit of a cough and the starter stops. switch off do it again. still seems to show 12.3v or so.......
I tried connecting a voltmeter to the battery, when i press the starter it drops to 11.4v.............

If it is the battery, thatll be my 4th!!!
Am i doing summat wrong with my optimate?

KeefyB
26-Feb-2006, 17:48
I'm just not impressed by those Optimates.
They just dont seem to put enough charge into a sealed battery.Also have you ever seen them 'monitor' a battery?
How come the thing says the battery is good,...switch it off and back on again,...and it starts charging!:puzzled:
Whats that all about?
Not impressed!

marko
26-Feb-2006, 18:18
[quote]Originally posted by andyb
Yeah my display shows 12.3v and ive had the optimate on. All i get it switch on the fuel pump wurrrrs, presss start, it turns once a bit of a cough and the starter stops. switch off do it again. still seems to show 12.3v



Sorry andy thets not enough to start your bike you should be looking for about 12.75 volts and high 13 volts after a good run or after a charge

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 18:25
Originally posted by marko
[quote]Originally posted by andyb
Yeah my display shows 12.3v and ive had the optimate on. All i get it switch on the fuel pump wurrrrs, presss start, it turns once a bit of a cough and the starter stops. switch off do it again. still seems to show 12.3v



Sorry andy thets not enough to start your bike you should be looking for about 12.75 volts and high 13 volts after a good run or after a charge

Where did you get that from? Is that written anywhere?

KeefyB
26-Feb-2006, 20:15
Dunno where it was,but I have heard/read that too.
You need at least 12.5v to power the fuel injection and turn the starter motor.

andyb
26-Feb-2006, 20:39
Oh well, im gunna look to get that ytz7s if i can.if that works as im using the bike only on the track these days. Ill get the original sorted on warranty....again!

andyb
27-Feb-2006, 23:37
moment of inspiration with this as my battery is ok, what about the imobiliser and resetting the engine code............it was a thread by skidlids that i found..ooh i did notice the small red light flashing although i dont have any error codes...........i think.
so who can confirm the routine for checking error codes and the proceedure with the throttle and the imobiliser........

bolds
27-Feb-2006, 23:54
you will only get error codes when the orange engine management light is on....is it?

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 09:27
No Orange light........but flashing small red one.......:puzzled:

JPM
28-Feb-2006, 13:16
Small flashing red one is the immobiliser it'll go off after a few hours/days etc

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 14:11
Originally posted by JPM
Small flashing red one is the immobiliser it'll go off after a few hours/days etc

eh............?

JPM
28-Feb-2006, 14:28
What do you mean eh?

You stated up there you've got a small red flashing light numpty!

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 14:59
small Red light gone.
power straight to the starter and it goes first time..... and the oil red light displays!! i guess this is why it was not starting conventionally!!!!

Now why is it telling me ive got no oil or oil pressure....... switch looks ok and the wire to the switch seems ok too just a push on connector.......cock!

butch890
28-Feb-2006, 15:23
Andy ,there are two wires with identical connectors on the offside of the engine,one does il pressure the other does the neutral light ( i think) check youve not got them swapped !;)
Butch

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 16:13
Originally posted by butch890
Andy ,there are two wires with identical connectors on the offside of the engine,one does il pressure the other does the neutral light ( i think) check youve not got them swapped !;)
Butch

Ooh, sounds good.........

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 16:14
Originally posted by andyb
Originally posted by butch890
Andy ,there are two wires with identical connectors on the offside of the engine,one does il pressure the other does the neutral light ( i think) check youve not got them swapped !;)
Butch

Ooh, sounds good.........

anyone want to confirm to me any colours of wires on these.....maybe when you get home Butch??

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 17:06
HURRAH................................:sing::sing:

Butch to the top of the class.....all sorted!!!!!!

I couldnt see the wood for the trees!!!!! poxy wire!!!:lol::lol::lol:

butch890
28-Feb-2006, 19:21
Originally posted by andyb
Originally posted by andyb
Originally posted by butch890
Andy ,there are two wires with identical connectors on the offside of the engine,one does il pressure the other does the neutral light ( i think) check youve not got them swapped !;)
Butch

Ooh, sounds good.........

anyone want to confirm to me any colours of wires on these.....maybe when you get home Butch??
would do mate but the baby r is still at johns "having a few bits done":D
Butch

butch890
28-Feb-2006, 19:25
Originally posted by andyb
HURRAH................................:sing::sing:

Butch to the top of the class.....all sorted!!!!!!

I couldnt see the wood for the trees!!!!! poxy wire!!!:lol::lol::lol:
See all that time at coventry hasnt been wasted,now fully factory trained!:lol:
Actully the truth is id done the same thing on the 77 bike,the wire lengths lead you to believe that they go naturally to the wrong sensors.
Glad you sorted it mate.
that'l be one "get out of speeding caed" please mate!:lol::lol:
Butch

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 19:38
Originally posted by butch890
Originally posted by andyb
HURRAH................................:sing::sing:

Butch to the top of the class.....all sorted!!!!!!

I couldnt see the wood for the trees!!!!! poxy wire!!!:lol::lol::lol:
See all that time at coventry hasnt been wasted,now fully factory trained!:lol:
Actully the truth is id done the same thing on the 77 bike,the wire lengths lead you to believe that they go naturally to the wrong sensors.
Glad you sorted it mate.
that'l be one "get out of speeding caed" please mate!:lol::lol:
Butch

Its in the post! If you get stopped, mention my name......... :lol::lol::lol:
Remind me to buy you a drink...its now going up for its service!!! the last thing i wanted to do was send it there with a ..."oh by the way it wont run now" Winker tab on it!!
any money left...................?

yeti
28-Feb-2006, 19:40
Sounds like yer battery mate. I don't trust these Optimates at all, in fact I'm fairly convinced the damn thing has already cooked two batteries.

I now charge the tiny battery on the RS the night before I go to the track, and take a Chuff off big car battery with me which connects into the system via an Anderson coupling to up the cranking current for cold starting. This can then be disconnected when the engine is running.

A YX7 isn't that pricey, get a new one!

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 20:01
Originally posted by yeti
Sounds like yer battery mate. I don't trust these Optimates at all, in fact I'm fairly convinced the damn thing has already cooked two batteries.

I now charge the tiny battery on the RS the night before I go to the track, and take a Chuff off big car battery with me which connects into the system via an Anderson coupling to up the cranking current for cold starting. This can then be disconnected when the engine is running.

A YX7 isn't that pricey, get a new one!

No it was my wiring...............i got my battery tested and remarkably it was 12.5 and over 300amps!:o

Carbon749
28-Feb-2006, 21:21
Andy,

Not wanting to come over as smug, but, when you first listed the thread about stripping the bike I said the following ...


Clearly identify the Neutral switch connector on the loom, looks just like another one (rear brake I think) and you can mix them up.


OK, should have said the neutral switch connector and oil pressure connector ... but you get the idea.

Only reason I know is because I got them back to front as well :(

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 21:48
Originally posted by Carbon749
Andy,

Not wanting to come over as smug, but, when you first listed the thread about stripping the bike I said the following ...


Clearly identify the Neutral switch connector on the loom, looks just like another one (rear brake I think) and you can mix them up.


OK, should have said the neutral switch connector and oil pressure connector ... but you get the idea.

Only reason I know is because I got them back to front as well :(

:lol: yeah i know! The length of the two wires really do fool you into believing they go the other way round!

Hang on a minute.......you wernt watching me suffer with this....... were you? :lol::frog::lol:

Carbon749
28-Feb-2006, 22:07
Hang on a minute.......you wernt watching me suffer with this....... were you? :lol::frog::lol:

Nooooo .... honest :P

I checked back in to the thread to see how you were getting on and noticed the last few comments on the wiring.

When I took my bike to pieces I thought the engineering was awesome. Then found 2 wires with exactly the same length and same connectors .... reminded me I was working on a Ducati :lol:

Sure the factory smiled when they threw that one in to the design.

andyb
28-Feb-2006, 22:15
"I was waiting for someone to spot that".in Captain Mannering voice!