Timing belts tension

[Tonio600]

Using the Allen keys method, can anyone confirm those numbers:

Rear barrel: 6mm key goes through easily, 7mm needs forcing.
Front barrel: 5mm key goes through easily, 6mm needs forcing.

Cheers
Tonio.

[GsxrAge]

I have always tensioned them in a way they won't turn more past 90 degrees !

Age

[Tonio600]

Thanks mate, will try that as well.
Will be my first belt change, it's good to be aware of all the methods people use, it should prevent me of doing a stupid mistake...

[GsxrAge]

Make sure your timing marks line up and mark them well with white paint.

Before ya start it up take out plugs and turn it over by hand just to be sure !

Age

[Tonio600]

will do :)

[phil_h]

Give me a shout if you want a second opinion, and I'll pop round after work on monday or something.

[Tonio600]

Cheers Phil, will do it. I didn't have time to fit the carbs back though, but I hope to make some progress during the week. With the weather we had this weekend, I'm no longer in a hurry for putting my bike back on the road :lol::lol::lol:

[phoenix n max]

http://www.buschandbusch.com/ducatisuite/belttension.html

[Gary T.]

Originally posted by AGE996
I have always tensioned them in a way they won't turn more past 90 degrees !

Age


Same here. Used to frig around with the spring balance (as per haynes) on the tention rollers, but now just go for the 45 degree (ish) twist mid run.

Works for me :D

[Edited on 28-5-2006 by Gary T.]

[rockhopper]

5mm on the front one, 6mm on the back on. Stick the key between the belt and the idler pulley then press the tensioning pully onto the belt with your finger. Tighten up the bolts and that should be it. Too slack is better than too tight though although they don't want to be very slack!

[nelly]

always tension the belts with the respective cylinder @ TDC. If you tension both belts with the alignment marks aligned, the rear is being pulled tight by the helper spring on the inlet ;)