Do i need expensive oil?

[nicks]

2000 750ssie. Local shop quoted £48 for oil developed for v-twins.

Sounds ott to me.

Any thoughts as the manual says i can use all sorts of oil depending on ambient air temperatures.

I know it is hot now but it aint always!!!

Anyway what oil and how much should i expec to pay?

[moto748]

I use Motul 300V fully synth in mine.

I thought it was supposed to be one of the dearest brands around, but I paid 30 quid for 5 litres at my local bike shop.*


* Fair play to Phoenix Motorcycles, Trowbridge. They hadn't got any 5 litre cans left, but decanted 5 l for me out of the big tub in their workshop. Just said, "Have got got an empty can at home?", and I nipped home and fetched a can. Worked out a bit cheaper, too.

I know you could say that otherwise, they'd lose a sale, but I'm sure a lot of shops wouldn't have been bothered.

[Zimbo16]

No, you don't need expensive oil. I always used rock Oil Guardian semi synthetic in my 900ie, £16 for 4 litres, more than up to the task. castol / shell / silkolene equivelants are similar money, will be easily up to the task.

[Nigel C]

Silkolene 15/50 fully synth £28 i remember paying for 5 litres

[domski]

We run semi synthetic oil in the 'race' bike.

Don't Ducati recommend oil?

[Nigel C]

yes Shell Advance but it's purely of a sponsorship/money reason i would have thought

[nicks]

Cheers guys but what do you think -

10-30
10-40


20-50 seems to be the advised grade by Ducati but as i said they state that most can be used depending on temp.

Nick

[Chaz]

Always use the best oil you can buy it's cheap maintainance & change it
every couple of thousand miles.

[tranquil_rage]

Change it every 6000 miles unless your using the cheapest **** you can find. Even semi-synth can last at least 6000 miles let alone a fully synth. Your just wasting your money if you change it more often.

[Chaz]

Change it every 6000 miles unless your using the cheapest **** you can find. Even semi-synth can last at least 6000 miles let alone a fully synth. Your just wasting your money if you change it more often.

That's every 2yrs for most of us lot on that argument.

[multi600]

That's every 2yrs for most of us lot on that argument.
And every two months for those of us who ride our bikes. It costs enough to run a Ducati in the first place without throwing money away on needless oil changes.

Mike

[frosty]

Gentlemen, Please accept some wisdom from someone who has worked in engine oils for an oil company for over 25 years. When a manufacturer quotes a specificaion, it will be the minimum required not the optimum. Some places n the world you cannot get oils THIS good! We all know how expensive it is to repair and service our engines so surely a little investment will act as an insurance. Buy the best that you can. The only problem is spotting ther best. Forget Sponsorhip LOGOs as that just confirms who gave the team some money. It's no guarantee of the oil used in the bike. Firstly pick a viscosity. I would use nothing less than 15w50 as the viscosity will be marginal a high temperatures. It's the film thickness at 150 degrees which is critical. A cheap oil will also break down (shear) and that fine film will become metal to metal contact at high temperatures. Result is tell tale shards in the filter strainer. My 900SSie has done 25Kmiles and I have never seen debris in the filter! Only use fully synthetic as these stand 150.c plus without degradation. Degradation is spotted by lacquer or brown deposits in the engine. This is the oil oxidising. Another enemy of our bikes is oil shear. What oil do I use. Mobil 1 Racing 4T (Halfords). Oh yes, I do use the bike! All the miles have been European trips and ride schools on most tracks and the ring (several times) with no mechanical failures (wheres the wood!) ps. Harley love this oil too.

[Iconic944ss]

Shaazam! has spoken ;)

Oil:
Synthetic - Mobil1 15W-50 Car spec.

OilFilter: I prefare the K&N item as it has a nut built into the end for easy removal
Airfilter: K&N again, expensive but reusable with a cleaning / oiling kit both available from:

http://www.pdq1.com (http://www.pdq1.com/)

or Hein Gerick / M&P etc.

Plugs: I've tried NGK and Platinum plugs and thought the Platinum plugs helped starting (a bit) but I'm not convinced the running is any smoother) - some peeps are saying try a different grade of plug for the rear cylinder as it runs hotter but I've not been down this road yet !!!

Fuel Filter - stick with Ducati OEM I think - following Dereks recommendation I'm moving mine to OUTSIDE of the fuel tank (not sure exactly where yet, mind) but I cant see the logic of having a replacable item - inside the fuel tank). PS - Newer style filter I was sold is metal bodied as opposed to the original plastic one inside the tank.

Cheers - Frank

[IainMac]

Dunno about K&N oil filters but if it was still in warrenty I'd stick with OEM filters
As to K&N air filters.... hmmm great for extra air to engine but not for filtration properties as they let more particles in than an average foam filter so ok for race engines that get stripped and refreshed regularly but not for road engines. Whether or not u'd notice on most low miler ducs is debatable but imho stick with stock its not that much extra air.

[frosty]

Mobil 1 15w-50 car spec ?
Think you will find Mobil 1 15W-50 is bike Spec - JASO MA (the only bike specification appart from manufacturer recommendation, meaning wet clutch compatible)
Mobil 1 0w-40 and Mobil 1 Motorsport- car spec. Coz they have fuel effcient friction modifiers in them. Motorsport 15w-50 is OK though for dry clutch bikes.
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