What are the monster standard supension settings?

[katana]

for a 1998 m600.

What amount of fork should be above the top yolk and what level should the rear rose joints be?

Oh and what setting should the standard rear shock be.

This way I have a base set of figures to improve from.

Thanks

[Dougducati]

Think you'll find that the top of the forks are level with the top yoke and that the rose joints are wound in so that you can only see one or two threads. Not sure about the base setting for the rear shock.

My M600 is set up pretty extreme because I like a quick turn in. I'm trying to do this from memry so bear with me!!! But I think I have about four lines showing above the top yoke and I have the rose joints wound out as far as it is safely possible. Hope this helps.

[katana]

Ahhh

I have the four rings showing at the front and wound down rear rose joints.

Is this the extreme it gets to?

[Dougducati]

'fraid so. You're fairly limited for adjustment on a 600. Unless you can find rose joints with a longer thread, but I think you'll be out of luck there because they're all the same length.

You could try clip-ons. That will alter your riding position and put more weight over the front. I found it gave me more confidence to bury it into a corner and not think that the front was going to wash away.

[katana]

it also has a 170 rear which also may not help.

Thinking of going to the stock setting and new tyres and see what happens then.

Anyone got a spare set of DD racing tyres?

[Shandy]

My M600 is set up pretty extreme because I like a quick turn in. I'm trying to do this from memry so bear with me!!! But I think I have about four lines showing above the top yoke and I have the rose joints wound out as far as it is safely possible. Hope this helps.

Mines set up the same for a quick turn but done in a slightly different way to suit being taller. The top of the forks are pretty much level with the top yoke and at the rear i've got a set of the attached fitted to raise up the back.

As a general rule i think the lower the front and the higher the back the quicker it turns, but the quicker it turns the more unstable it becomes at higher speed.

Cheers,

Shandy

[Dougducati]

As a general rule i think the lower the front and the higher the back the quicker it turns, but the quicker it turns the more unstable it becomes at higher speed.

Cheers,

Shandy = MORE FUN!!!!!

Cunning plan. Where did you get those extensions from?

[Shandy]

= MORE FUN!!!!!

Cunning plan. Where did you get those extensions from?

Yep damn good fun, it got even better with new tyres on as the old un's were a bit on the square side. It drops just right into corners low and high speed.

I got the parts from Rich at Louigimoto which he fitted at a service last year, heres where to find his details,

http://www.louigimoto.co.uk/

Cheers,

Shandy

[katana]

Does it make them really unstable?

I did it to my bandit (longer rear shock) and it was stable and excellent at cornering.

May look in to this how much is the raising kit?

[Shandy]

Kit was about £20ish i think.

I only get a little bit of a wobble at 100+ in a straight line on the motorway which is getting near the limit of what an M600 will do anyway so i don't worry about it, don't notice any other instabilty on other roads. Dougducati might get a bit more with the forks dropped lower. From what i've seen and read alot of suspension set up is trial and error as the best set up is individual for the size and weight of rider.

Shandy

[Zimbo16]

I found fork tops level with clamps (for maximum ground clearance) and rose joints wound out about 12 - 15mm (I put a second locknut on to support them). Adjust preload till bike compresses around 28mm from fully extended (no weight on rear wheel at all) to compressed under normal rider's weight, measured at rear axle. Rebound fully clockwise then back off about 7 clicks.