DP ECU for 2000 MY 900ss

[coogers]

Hi.

I'm trying to source a Ducati Performance ECU to go with DP Remus cans on the above bike. There doesn't seem to be a lot of info available about them.

I have seen an ECU for sale which was supposedly taken from a 2001 900ss. It has a DP label with the number 09146, and is marked "ECU 750 SS '99." The label is stuck over the original Magneti Marelli label, which has IAW15M.A8 on it.

Does anyone know if this will work correctly? If not, what model ECU should I be looking for? And does anyone want to sell me one...

VIN: ZDMV100AAYB007691 indicates a 2000 model year I think?

The bike came with the Remus cans and a PCIII USB (710-410), but it had obviously not been set up optimally, so I took them all off and bought a set of standard cans. It now runs great, but is a bit insipid sounding to say the least!

Thanks for any pointers,
Martin.

[bradders]

why not put the cans and pc111 back on and just get it set up?

[coogers]

why not put the cans and pc111 back on and just get it set up?

Good question. The new cans were £65 delivered. The PC set up would have cost £150. I'm tight!

Also, I did a bit of surfing on the subject and spoke to the local Dynojet bloke as well as a Ducati service dept. guy. I understand the PC can adjust the fuel mixture, but the DP ECU adjusts the timing as well and ups the revs a bit, which the PC can't do. So I was told anyway. The Dynojet bloke was understandably eager to get his mitts on it.

I wrote to the previous owner-but-one who did the PC map on a dyno. He reckoned it was spot-on. It blooming well wasn't! To be fair to him, in the paperwork was a graph of the dyno run which looked OK, flat air/fuel ratio around 13:1, max bhp 77.21. But on the (250 mile) ride home, after an hour of sub-60 mph running (due to a shedload of NSL speed cams in Devon) when it had run fine, I gave it the beans. At around 7k revs, after 10 minutes or so, it would hesitate big style if you opened the throttle further. It may have had something to do with the big Maplins on/off switch and a couple of resistors he'd soldered into the PC loom. This was apparently to test the effect of switching out the temperature sensor. I plan to repair the wiring and see if that fixes it, but I'd prefer to get the proper ECU if I can. Also he'd had "Brisk" spark plugs (£20 a pair) at the time, which someone later swapped out for standard NGK plugs. Maybe that affected it too. MPG is 50, plugs look healthy (on the dark side), so it doesn't seem that far out fuel-wise, just something isn't quite right with the PC in the loop.

Anyway, with the standard cans it runs really well.

I'm happy (-ish) to keep the standard cans on. But having the DP cans already (and they do sound gorgeous!), I wouldn't mind getting the proper matching ECU if at all possible. If not, no biggie. I druther have a reliable bike rather than one which is striving for a few extra HP and failing.

Anyway, that's my thinking on the subject.

Cheers,
Martin.

[skidlids]

Give Nelly a call at Cornerspeed, he has the kit to alter the program in the standard 1.5M ECU, will cost about the same as the PC setup but you get the other parameters altered as well.
I'm trying to source the software myself but the Direct Link version from Technoresearch uses a key that locks to each ECU and costs you £125 for each key, so would prefer the FIM setup

[coogers]

Give Nelly a call at Cornerspeed, he has the kit to alter the program in the standard 1.5M ECU, will cost about the same as the PC setup but you get the other parameters altered as well.


Now that sounds like a better option than the PC. I will definitely consider doing this, thanks very much! In fact I've just bunged him an email to find out more.

Cheers,
Martin.

[bradders]

from what I was reading on Ducatisti - when it existed - flashing or whatever its called the std ecu seemed the best option for most Ducatis

[coogers]

from what I was reading on Ducatisti - when it existed - flashing or whatever its called the std ecu seemed the best option for most Ducatis

It's supposed to be back up tonight so I'll have a look there too. Thanks.

[bradders]

http://www.cjsracing.co.uk/mapping.htm

[coogers]

Neil was most helpful (he replied at 0900, how quick was that!), but cannot now do the re-flashing as FIM are no longer trading. Top chap, gave me some good advice.

Anyway, after a few more rides I still have hesitation around 7k, so I'll have a root around for anything obvious and go from there.

[coogers]

In case anyone's interested, the hesitation seems to have been due to the crank sensor. I checked the air gap using a feeler gauge, it was in spec. Took it for a 100 mile ride and the problem had gone away. Done 300 miles since, no problems.

My fanciful theory is that I dislodged something (magnetic? metal filings?) from the sensor when shoving the feeler gauge blades in.

So having repaired the PC wiring, the PC and DP cans are back on and I am a happy bunny.

This is what it was doing before:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdDC6djC9hU

Again, thanks to Neil at Cornerspeed for his excellent advice.

Cheers,
Martin.