Oil and filters are cheap so I change mine at 1000 miles, no flushing necessary.

Wow! I feel like a real slob cos I only change mine every 6000m, with the occasional 3000m intermediate. In fact I was thinking about changing it at the weekend (reckon I'm around the 3000m mark). But I do use the Motul 15/50 fully synth mentioned by other posters.

I suppose I do more miles than many of youse guys; if I changed the oil as frequently as some of you, I'd be doing it every month! Literally.
Someone said; oil's cheap. Well fully synth plus a filter is say 40 quid. Like I said, if I changed it every month, that's 500 notes a year. Hardly negligible.

For all that, my engine's in good nick, and I've only had to replace one rocker.

If 95% of engine wear takes place at start up, particularly with a Ducati 4 valve that has to wait up to 90 seconds to get the oil to the rocker assembly wouldn’t it be prudent to use an oil with a lower viscosity to ensure that the thinner oil gets there as quick as possible?

Is there really that much difference between a 10/40 fully synthetic and a 15-20/50?
Especially when you look at the stats below:

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t_ga_2101.html

I put it all down to stickability.
the thicker oil will not run down from the head so quickly thus leaving a nice coat already up there when you get going.

Yes but how do we know that the thicker oils ability to stick is any better than a top quality lower grade synthetic especially compared to the fact that the lower grade will be there lubricating before the higher grade.

the ability of the oil to get to the head is nothing to do with its consistency its down to the pump.
and its been something that's been found on head inspection.
people who take engines apart will say that when they take a engine apart that has used a good quality thicker oil, it will still be evident on engine parts in the head.
i.e. its still stuck up there.
at the end of the day anyone can use what they want.
but im going with the thick brigade :roll:

Got to disagree with that mate the thicker the oil the harder the pump is going to have to work to get it up there and the more frictional resistance will be created.

I once had to drain some virtually new 20/50 from a bike and left it in an open pan over night in the shed in winter, when I went back to it next morning it was like treacle if that had been in your bike I think it would have taken even longer than 90 seconds to get up there.

You could possibly prove this, a post I have recently read was about how hard it is to start an SPS when cold in winter, try a lower grade oil and I bet it starts easier.

That may be true S.P but I think the point Keefer is trying to make is that it will have less of a need to rush up there because the rockers etc will have a coating of 'treacle' already.

I'd recommend you read Neil Spalding's article that Keefer posted earlier here for some good information. Also, read through Shazaams stuff. Both of these guys are quality and recommend 15W/50.

So does Nelly, and I would venture to say that most of the club members that have been around for a while would run 15W/50 and for a good reason.

If you're still in doubt give Neil Spalding a call and he'll happily chat to you about it. His contact details are on his website or I can u2u you his mobile number.

Happy reading :D

Oh and one last point as has been said, at the end of the day you can run what you want and change it as often as you like. Everyone is entitled to their own view so fill your boots.

I'm actually running rock oil, but I think that the merits of a lower grade are worth exploring, the trouble with the treacle is that most of it will have run off back to the sump whilst the bike is hot.

I'd be interested to try the Shell 15/50 but it’s impossible to get hold of.

Anyone had experience of Mobile 1 leaving a sludgy type substance in the engine when the engine is stripped down? And why does it get dirty looking so quick?

Recommended reading ...

http://www.dezmo.com/gordononoil.html