[breakout]

dont idle the engine ,start bike,wait for the oil to get to the cams then ride it,engine will warm up quicker than it will idling it;- so will spend less time at its cold dimensions so less wear will occur on startup ,less clutch wear will also occur ,because alot of this happens to people who idle their engines in neutral,your clutch basket is unsightly but I have seen many much worse and the clutches still work fine!you must be very careful if you attempt tofile the serrations off because if you dont do it accurately enough so that all drivelugs are equally loaded the plates may well be stressed out of flat, this will make it lesslikely you will be able to find neutral,also increasing the tang clearence just increases the wear rate and makes the clutch noiser,If you buy a clutch basket in alloy get a hard anodised one brown or green/olive I dont believe that It will make much difference ( a few microns of anodising ) but wide tang alloy plates will last longer and are alot quieter,breakout

Originally posted by nathanTX
So, I took the clutch apart this weekend. Many thanks to my friend Uwe for welding up the hub holding tool and giving a hand. Definitely need new plates. The tangs are pretty banged up and the friction material is almost gone on some plates. I would think a new basket is in order as well. But, you guys have seen a lot more of these than I have. So, take a look at the pics and tell me what you think. New basket?





I mentioned the possibility of going to an ST4S clutch (as I have read about here) to a friend with an ST4. He thought that was funny as all the ST4S guys he knows have gone to aftermarket. He said one of the most highly rated ones on the ST board is by Pro Cutting, or is often called "Charlie's Clutch".

Info here: http://sky.prohosting.com/ssnyder/product4.htm

I couldn't care less about quiet, but I would like long lasting and the less it's rattling around in there, the less damage it's doing. So, anyone familiar with this option?