The alloy plates are alot lighter===They have a lower flywheel moment of inertia. The damage problem occurs because the clutch doesnt spin at a constant angular velocity; every time one of those big pistons is on the expansion stroke the crank and clutch are subject to angular acceleration ;when on the exhaust and intake strokes the crank/clutch begin to slow down again.It is this speeding up and slowing down that causes the rattle, because the clutch basket tansfers this motion to the clutch pack and because the clutch pack is loose in the basket it does this by tapping it,( the rattling noise)
It then follows if the drive plates are lighter (alloy) then it takes less tapping energy (hammering)to speed them up and slow them down ,so less destruction (damage) results.
The plates are a consumable, your clutch basket should not be, for road work use my --------i clutch plates,save the basket ,take off easier , never have to clean the clutch, enjoy riding the bike more! breakout
Quote:
Originally posted by nathanTX
OK, a couple more questions (sorry). The Barnett clutch packs that I seem to find just about everywhere use aluminum backed friction plates. The Barnett website clearly says for use with aluminum or steel baskets, so one would think it would be OK. But, I was thinking that mixing aluminum and steel would be a no-no. Wouldn't the softer aluminum tangs get banged to <b>censored</b> that much faster against the harder steel basket? Does anyone have personal experience using aluminum plates with the stock steel basket and how was the longevity? I would just use the factory steel clutch pack, but it's $50 more expensive and less immediately available, not to mention of questionable durability.
Lastly, since I don't have a service manual, can someone list (or link to) the torque specs for the basket mounting bolts, the hub nut, and the pressure plate/spring keepers? TIA. |