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| #1  14-Feb-2006, 18:59 | ||||
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| Questions,questions questions? Okay,if the website can stay working long enough can anyone help with advice on the following. 1.Gearing. Need new chain and sprockets.Suggestions please regarding standard front and how many rears,stick with standard, change it every round etc. 2.Braided brake lines. Anyone got a good deal anywhere. 3 Tyres. Pirelli Diablo but what speed rating is required by the regs.Beleive the choice is noted by R17 or ZR17 for over 130 mph.My bike will do this i,m sure[ especially if it does not lie down and give in to being built nicely ]when i send it off the nearest cliff  4 Oil catch trays. Where do the available trays fix to on the engine / fairing.Does anyone have any pics. Right, thanks alot i,m off to hit the bike with my fcuk off big hammer now to show it who,s boss   |
| #2 14-Feb-2006, 19:06 | ||||
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| 1.Gearing. Need new chain and sprockets.Suggestions please regarding standard front and how many rears,stick with standard, change it every round etc. I ran a 14 for most rounds last year, and made do with 3 rears, a 41, 43 and 44. (1996 600SS) 2.Braided brake lines. Anyone got a good deal anywhere. Sorry, can't help. Fleabay usually. 3 Tyres. Pirelli Diablo but what speed rating is required by the regs.Beleive the choice is noted by R17 or ZR17 for over 130 mph.My bike will do this i,m sure[ especially if it does not lie down and give in to being built nicely ]when i send it off the nearest cliff As long as they've got Diablo on the side (and no Corsa markings....) then buy 'em. 4 Oil catch trays. Where do the available trays fix to on the engine / fairing.Does anyone have any pics. The SS bellypan I had fixed to the fairing using the wellnuts. Good luck, Ali |
| #4 14-Feb-2006, 20:18 | ||||
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| Dom, I thought you pencilled that one out! Griff, cant advise on gearing unless we know what bike you have/engine too. There is different primary drive ratios for the 583, depending on whether pre 98 or post 98. For 583 monster (2000) we run most of the time on 14/45. Brake lines? - wot Ali said, but why are you changing them? - and dont forget the front ones have to split above the bottom yoke. (dont get 916 ones, as the wont pass scrut, as they split below the bottom yoke)  |
| #7 14-Feb-2006, 21:32 | ||||
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| Quote:
I've always used 2 long lines - direct from the master cylinder to each caliper - no splitting required. Too fiddly to split lines and find somewhere to tidy it all away. Also if you have 2 long lines, it's easy to take one away (and a caliper and disc) should you feel that way inclined - takes all sorts don't it! |
| #8 14-Feb-2006, 21:36 | ||||
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| I should just like to add... That's the way I would do it, if I didn't have a pit bitch called Chass By the way we're sponsored by somebody who does Goodridge, and I thoroughly recommend that you buy some (although I hear HEL are good too) Think that keeps everyone happy  |
| #9 14-Feb-2006, 22:49 | ||||
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| Dom, thats exactly what we have done on the Snot - 2 lines. Griff, the lines dont have to be braided, they just give a stronger feel, as they are a stronger pipe. Mark at MHP uses std rubber ones on his R6. C |
| #10 14-Feb-2006, 23:05 | ||||
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| Thanks everyone so far Ali, do you mean the catch tray was drilled in the bottom inline with the fairing nuts and it all sandwiched together. Can you confirm standard gearing is 15/46,mines a early bike. Don,t shout at once but on my 900ss road bike the gearing was vastly improved by going up 3 teeth on the back so lowering the gearing/making it shorter. So everyone is making the gearing longer to race by reducing the back cog for the track,because...................the lighter bike/power to weight means it can pull more?  |
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