Powder coating wheels
I'm having both wheels on my 749 powder coated black by a local company. :D
They want the bare wheels, and I've been told that for the best job, the bearings are gonna have to come out.
I've got both wheels, discs and sprocket off, but how do I get the bearings out? Is there anything else I need to consider for the powder coating to turn out well?
I don't know if the 999/749 has the same type of spacer tube as the ST, but if it has it will look a bit like a tube with fins around it to keep it centred in the hub. This means that you can't wriggle it into an offset position to get a drift behind the wheel bearing.
But...the spacer will have a slot in one end and you should be able to get a long screwdriver or something like that in from the opposite end, angle the blade through the slot and gently tap the first bearing out from behind. Once you've got the first one out, simply remove the spacer and you'll have plenty of the inner face of the second bearing available to tap that one out as well. We're not talking brute force here, the bearing is just an interference fit into the housing so it shouldn't need a club hammer.
If all else fails, you may need to take a cold chisel to the outer race of the bearing and crack it out. It's case hardened so it's quite brittle when you've got through the case hardening...but for gawds sake be careful, it's easy for the chisel to slip and gouge up the bearing seat.
Jools you are a legend. :D Thanks mate.
The parts manual shows the same type of spacer tube (with fins), and I can see the slot, so I'll try to tap the bearing out. There are also what the parts manual refers to as vibration dampers (5 of them) in the wheel, I guess they are bushes I can tap out too?
Whilst on the subject of powder coating, do you reckon I should get the sprocket carrier coated at the same time? It'll mean the removal of more bearings and bushes! :o
They won't tap out :(
Any other suggestions please?
We powder coat alloy mtb frames but the only way we can get powder to stick well is to chemical etch first. this process actually eats metal away and we've got to allow for this in the cnc machine parts that hold headset and pivot bearings. The powder will get heated to about 180 degrees in the oven. Check how powder coater will prepare, some use a bead blast which can work ok and doesn't eat metal but it doesn't key as well. Make sure your powder coater knows what they are doing !!
You have to have them pressed out with a bearing press!
Also,once removed you will have to replace them with new ones so it gets a bit expensive.
I had mine painted with 2pack paint.The paint is less brittle than powder coat so when you replace tyres etc it wont chip.
Also saved me the hassle/expense of removing all those bloody bearings:D
So I can have the wheels painted at my regular painters? Is the finish more/less durable?
Im confused now :puzzled: I thought powder coating the wheels was the way to go :puzzled:
you can have them any way you choose there are quite a few different views on this across the board.
I recently had my frame and swing arm powder coated, but had my wheels painted (manly due to the fact that they are Magnesium and I didn't trust the powder coater to apply special materials to make it stick)
and Dymag wanted ridicules amount of money to do the job ?
sounds like you have already attacked the bearing any way so why not press on and do as you wanted to in the first place.
if you still want to powder them you will need to have them blasted first
The company was going to grit blast them first, but I'm unsure as which approach to use now. Do I definitely have to use new bearings once they're out?
I can probably get them painted for the same/cheaper, but I'm just wondering about the finish and how susceptible to chips and stuff either way :puzzled: ?
I have always had my wheels painted and i have never had any issues.
You would defo need to replace the bearing after they are pressed out, even if you thought you might get away with it...it is defo not something to risk!!
I chose the paint option purely because the finish is spot on, and the ease of it.
For any other bits and bobs (subframe etc...) i have powder coated for the same reason.
2 pack paint is softer, hence chips and fractures are unlikely whereas powdercoat is very brittle, thats why you see lots of little chip marks around the rim when the tyres have been changes a few times.
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