I was speaking to mike who now works at bob hills and he said ther were a couple of instances on 998rs where the crank was shimmed incorrectly (to tight) causing the crank to distort under load when hot, putting the reference sensor air gap out of limits I will try to speak to him today to confirm if the simptoms are the same if so I will email uou his contact number

dave

Its getting really fustrating but i will persevere.
The bike has had the crank position sensor re-set, cpu replaced, all wiring connections and switches checked and a couple of relays replaced.
Its like all power is cut for a split second then back on again. Like when you rock the kill switch on an line four to make it backfire!?

I hope it will be ok on the track day as i don't want it to missfire whilst i'm cranked over around Gerrards!!

The bike now feels a little snatchy now i've got a pipercross airfilter in?

I've got the bike set up more how i like it now and it does handle sweet but back to back with a 999 it isnt quite as effortless!!
I gone up 20mm on the rear ride height and 2 clicks comp/rebound and 1 turn preload on the front. At the back just a click of comp/rebound.

Jon,
just using ducati plates at the moment but will get a set off JHP.
Whats the best brake pads to get??
Bendix MF?

[Edited on 25-6-2003 by chillo]

Brakepads
 

As several previous discussions on this subject showed, there is no such thing as the "best" brakepads. Brakes are a system. A suitable pad depends on a lot of factors, including personal preference. For instance, I didn't think much of the much liked EBC HH pads on my old 916 with stock discs, calipers, mastercylinder. On my race bike, which uses a radial m/c, GP calipers, and race discs, I really like the Bendix carbon matrix pads for track riding. Not sure I would run them on the street. Some people rave about the performance friction pads, but they are too rich for my blood, somewhere north of a 100 quid, as compared to Bendix at around 25 quid.

Chillo stick with it mate. I have had ECU problems on my ST4S and Ducati have supplied a new one which is the same as the 998/999R unit. I am told the bike now bogs down if you gas it at 4000rpm which is bloody handy on a sports tourer! It is still at JHP and they hope to sort it on the dyno. The new ecu is different to the old one but Ducati state that it is the replacement-oh well.

John

powercommanderpowercommanderpowercommander ;)

DJT,

If there is a problem with the inputs or outputs from the bikes ECU that is causing it to cut out or stop it reving beyond 9k then I would be amazed if a powercomander fixed it.

Chillo,

Is the pipercross filter similar or the same as the JHP one? Got JHP on my bike fitted with DP carbon airtubes and the mesh removed from the nose cone. The bike runs a little lumpy/fluffy at very low revs under 3k, but real smooth above to 11k plus. The bits were fitted at pro twins before I owned it.

If the chance to dyno it comes up I will let you know the results.

Ray

Ray, it's the same one. Purportedly, they worked together in developing it.

Ray your probably right, I was replying to montys post, having said that poor chillo has tried everything (i would have demanded a new bike by now) so anythings gotta be worth a go!

DataTool Alarm?
 

One of the lads I work with bought a new 03 Mille. With both he and I riding it separately, he experienced exactly the same thing.

The bike was back and forth to the Aprilia dealer several times, with the ECU, Sidestand Switch, Ignition Barrel and Tilt Switch all being replaced. Still the same symptoms.

Matey then checked rsvr.net and found a lot of people with a similar problem. Turned out to be a DataTool Evo alarm being mounted directly to the subframe, instead of using a cushioning system. This causes the unit to resonate at certain (higher) revs and gives the same effect as a misfire.

Apparently this is a common problem, and despite the alarm being installed by a registered DataTool installer, wasn't picked up.

Long shot Chillo, but is this a pattern with your symptoms?

Thanks for suggestion but dont have that type of alarm!

It seems to misfire more the faster i go i.e more air forced into the airbox. When i had the bike dyno'd a month or so ago it ran to 10250rpm and that is of course in still air. (apart from the cooling fans)
It will not rev past 9k in top but will rev through it in 5th if i just keep it nailed stuttering at 9k ish.
It will rev through it easier in lower gears to a point were i can't really tell in 1st or 2nd. I'm going to try tonight if i get chance in 1st.

Is it just a coincidence that it backfires when higher quantites of air are being forced into it???
The lads at Italia are convinced its a electrical problem?????



[Edited on 25-6-2003 by chillo]