Coolant enhancer? anyone used it ??
 

and how on earth does it work ???

Just dumped the rad on my trackbike and was a bit dismayed to find antifreeze in it - which leads me to think that the previous owner/s were not too bothered about regs / other riders.

So....has anyone tried any of the 'enhancers' advertised that work better than standard mix?

Can it really promote better cooling or does it just reduce the formation of deposits etc??

Cheers - Frank

You can always reduce operating temperatures by increasing the percentage of water in any water/glycol mixture. Plain distilled water has twice the heat transfer (cooling) capability compared to glycol-based coolant mixes, but shouldn't be used alone as a coolant since it lacks corrosion inhibitors and water pump seal lubricating properties.

WaterWetter is often used because it reduces the surface tension of water (the property that makes it bead-up) thereby improving further water's superior heat transfer ability while also adding the necessary lubricants and corrosion inhibitors. It can also be added to a water/glycol mix.

Most important, WaterWetter will reduce coolant temperatures across-the-board under all operating conditions. It's big advantage is use in modified engines having increased heat loads, and under high-load, high-rpm track conditions.

It's important to note, however, that for normal street riding in cooler and moderate weather it also can prevent the coolant from reaching optimum temperatures. Across-the-board temperature reductions of 15°F under all riding conditions are commonly experienced using WaterWetter.

I had to removed the water plus Water Wetter mixture from my 916's cooling system. On a 75°F day my coolant temperatures would only reach 140 - 170°F. I tried covering a section of radiator, but temperatures still stayed below 175°F. At these temperatures, the ECU is still adding extra fuel for warm-up conditions (below 175°F) by adding more fuel. The tailpipes were black and gas mileage was down.

An engine should be at its design operating temperature (usually mid-gauge) to make good power. Operate at too low a temperature and the engine is less efficient and makes less power. Higher temperatures are more thermodynamically efficient, but run at too high a temperature and you exceed the thermal expansion design basis of critical components and raise fuel octane requirements. Modern fuel injected motorcycles use engine management computers incorporating a coolant temperature sensor to retard the engine ignition timing to compensate for any increase in octane requirement when operating temperatures increase.

Most stock-engined sportbikes are designed to produce their best power when coolant temperatures are close to 200°F.

[Edited on 12-31-2004 by Shazaam!]

Frank, I haven't tried any mixes but I know of a few people who have when it comes to their race bikes, even though the ACU rules say NO additives are allowed. Just Water is all that is allowed in your cooling system at a race meeting.
I have turned up at a race meeting in early march with the cooling system empty as I was staying in a freezing paddock over night, then I added the water in the morning, I actually added it after scrutineering as race engines weren't allowed to run until first practice at 9am so I had plenty of time.

Cheers Guys,

I was actually getting worried about freezing as I thought my trackbike might have used water only but thinking about it I remember seeing a colour in the header tank anyway (but its not easy to get one's nose in there - :lol:).

I kinda like to do the right thing so will be looking to use Demin water and a enhancer of some sort since it did run a little hot at times.

Silkolene do there own product:
"Pro Cool – Advanced all season non toxic engine coolant
This road proven coolant gives winter protection down to –34C and improves heat transfer making it an ideal summer coolant."

I guess there are plenty of others. Now I guess its time to pull the rad off and give everything a good flushing anyway.

Good point by Shazzam (as always) about the water pump seal lubrication - how much more likey would it fail using just water I wonder?

Many Thanks - Frank

Have been told that you can't use coolant on continental track days, just plain water. As I'm off to Cartagena in Feb can anyone confirm this?

If you're talking about a track bike, you really shouldn't add anything. If you're talking about a race bike -DON'T add anything, it's against the rules - if you're caught, well, it could have serious consequences for your licence or club membership. More than that though, ask yourself why it's banned - it's bleeding slippy believe it or not. I was in the CB500/Hornets race at Snetterton this year when 9 bikes went down at the Bomb Hole (very fast corner) on two separate laps until they red flagged it. Yes, 9 bikes on the same corner. Apparantly, it was because the first guy had waterwetter in his rad and it broke on impact and 8 people behind him went down on it like it was ice. There were a lot of very angry people at that meeting as a result.

My race/track bikes sit in my garage from Nov - March with just water and I've not had any icing problems, nor have I had probs at March race meetings with the bike sitting in a freezing cold tent, but not sure if the temp went as low as freezing point, I doubt it. If you're worried, do as Skids says, (good idea mate), or try putting a blanket around the rad.

On some foriegn tracks they scrutineer your bike - it has to be lock-wired and no additives, not sure about belly pans. Check with the organiser before you travel.

WeeJohnyB

Cheers - WJB - I didnt know antifreeze was outlawed before I got my playbike, hense the post.

I dont see the freezing as a problem (now) since I wont be using my bike for a couple of months at the earliest.

I was going to ask if there is any water additive thats approved but, thinking about it, anything is going to be more slippery than water unless its alcohol based - in which case I cant see it being much use really :o

Ta... Frank

Just a plain water spill will make a track section twice as slippery as it is dry. The recommended 3% WaterWetter added to the coolant water doesn’t make it any more slippery, so it’s approved for racing applications here in the US. Check with your track and racing organization, I’ll bet it’s approved for use.

Silkolene Pro-Cool, is formulated with propylene glycol that is less toxic, and consequently environmentally more friendly than ethylene glycol installed at the factory by most manufacturers. Even though propylene glycol has a higher boiling point than ethylene glycol, when mixed with water it is less effective in both removing heat from your engine and transferring it to your radiator. So, it seems that the only logic for using it is to reduce the likelyhood of coolant discharge to racetracks, not for reducing operating temperatures. Both ethylene and propylene glycols are slippery, and hard to clean off the track since they doesn’t evaporate quickly like water. Most racing organizations ban their use.

[Edited on 12-31-2004 by Shazaam!]

Shazaam - you rule and your Waterwetter recommendation is good enough for me - just need to find a supplier now!

Do you ever sleep by the way :devil:

Cheers - Frank

Just one thing to add here, I havn't changed my coolant for water as I initially didn't know you had to, but what about corrosion inside the engine? The whole point of the coolant is to inhibit corrosion, so how do you get round it without?
I only ask because at my last major it was pointed out that my water pump was corroded quite badly, even with coolant in it.
:puzzled: