Throwing it down the road - advice needed
 

Don't need advice on how to throw it down the road, I've already had a bit of practice launching the old ST2 at the scenery during the CSS days, but I do need help on how to fix a few things quickly.

The CSS mechanic helped me straighten the bike enough to carry on, but...

To straighten the RH handlebar and replace the broken brake lever all the gubbins were taken off the bar to 'persuade' it back straight. It's better, but still out of whack. Looks like quite an expensive lump of casting so, should I :

• Try and belt it straight
• Seek a secondhand one of dubious history (could've also been crashed and straightened)
• Only trust a new part
• Follow a suggestion from another biker here in the office and nail a pair of Renthals on - more than a bit dubious myself, but has anybody tried it?

Next thing is that in the haste to do all this is time for the next CSS session, the little pin that connects the brake lever and the brake light microswitch has gone awol, so the brake light is permanently on. A pathetic little part, but any ideas how I get one - or something similar - without having to wait for a dealer back order?

Similar problem to the RH bar with the RH footrest hanger - to welt it straight or get another?

Oh, and does anybody know if Sil Motor do single replacement cans, 'cos the one I've had on the RH side of the bike for, ooooh a whole month now is mullered :(

The bike is rideable (apart from the dodgy illegal brake light), looks like a dog but it can wait until I get some of these bits sorted

[Edited on 13-5-2003 by Jools]

well mate I can give you a number of a breaker that has a few ST's if its any help
freedom motorcycles : 01292880713 ( Scotland )
...personal if you straighten things you never know how strong they are when you finish, it may never brake but on the other hand it could just fall apart in the middle of a corner. Obviously if its something your not relying on to keep it upright , like a fairing support etc, I would straighten it ...but a h/bar or support ...get a second hand / new one . the other point is as you have found it is almost impossible to get it back to exactly the right shape.
...you could always make the little plunger for the switch from a small piece of plastic ,I have done this on my Kawasaki. I used a piece of plastic from a kitset model , it was a piece from one of the frames that holds all of the parts together ( hope you can understand the description!)
Good luck !

Don't risk it Jools, put new bits on mate, you know in your own mind it's the way to go. You'll never ride the bike with confidence knowing you've got knocked about bits on it. Try JHP for the parts, you might find they're not as expensive as you think. If you can get dimensions for the brake pin I can turn you one up in hard plastic or aluminium. Not sure about the can, guess you need to go direct ti manufacturer or look round for a second hand one.

It would be a pity not to put your new found riding skills to use for fear of the handlebar falling off!!!, ask Monty, he's had it happen twice.

8ugger...If it aint one thing it's another.

I've had to fix things quick because I'm commuting on the bike this week.

So. I've fixed my false neutrals (caused by a loose footrest hanger which I probably didn't notice because it didn't flex when weighted) simply by tightening allen bolts

I've fixed my brake light switch by using a bit of plastic spar off a Revell Foggy Rep kit as a replacement for the pin between the lever and the switch.

Sorted then, apart from the bent bits?

Err, no. Today saw the neutral light develop a mind of it's own, coming on when I was doing 60 and obviously in gear, staying on when it felt like it, (whatever gear I was in) and going off when I was in neutral. Not a huge problem except that Nelly fitted a sidestand bypass so that I could start it on the sidestand in Neutral and let it warm up. Effectively I can't do that now, because it must use the neutral light to cut the ignition when it goes into gear. And with the light going on when in gear and sometimes being off when in neutral...

Then, on the way home I noticed the Tacho won't register much past 4K. Give it any more revs and it just sort of flicks meaninglessly between 4 - 5 K

8loody Ducatis. Good job I love it so much

Jools, check the connection on the neutral switch is sound. Its at the back of the engine, right hand side, just above the swingarm pivot. Might have come loose in the tumble.
As for the tacho, you could check the wiring connectors around the front subframe and down the rhs of the frame. Again, something might have got tugged when the bike went down.