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-   -   Nosecone removal (/showthread.php?t=551)

sevenfourate 02-Jun-2003 07:08

Nosecone removal
 
Im at work at the moment but am intending to get the nose-cone off this afternoon so i can get the number board sprayed on this week.
Is there anything i need to know about removal,any hints or a best way to do it ? And what the heck are those "clips" that appear to be holding the mirrors on ?

Thanks in advance.Regards Syer.

crm250 02-Jun-2003 07:52

doddle mate, i asume you are talking about a 748 / 9*6 ?? if so then, the mirrors have a small 5mm allen bolt holding those in place, once the bolts are removed the mirrors will pull off easily.
remove both fairing lowers.
then its just 4 bolts holding the fairing in place. 2 are just by the air intakes and i cant remember where the others are but its only a 5 min job anyhow.

sevenfourate 02-Jun-2003 08:39

CRM,
Thanks M8.Do i need to take the fairing lowers completely off or can i undo the top bolts and then hold each lower back slightly while then pulling the nosecone upwards ? (after taking off the nosecone bolts of course).

I dont recall 5mm allen bolts holding the mirrors on ? I saw a phillips screw and some strange protrusions coming from the mirrors,with almost like a ball joint on the end with a sort of shaped circlip affair to hold them on,on the inside of the fairing.Are all 748/9*6 mirrors the same ?
Its the mirror removal that worries me more than anything,as you say the rest looks a 5 min job.

Regards Syer.

Rattler 02-Jun-2003 09:32

removing nose cone.....
 
Its a lot easier if you take the fairing lowers off first!!! Then the nose cone can be removed, by removing the mirrors and the bolts underneath the fairing (by the air intakes).

As for the mirrors, as already stated, you just remove the allen bolts holding the mirrors on and pull them out to release them from the clips.

If you have got screws holding the mirrors on, then this may not be right, as the correct bolts are shear bolts and are therefore designed to be the first break point should you drop her. So in theory you'd save the nose cone from snapping or breaking!

If you've got screws in here, these may not be shear ones?

(As a note, when refitting shear bolts, don't overtighten these when you're putting the fairing back on as you can easily snap them):o

Basically, once the bolts (screws!!!) are removed, you can just pull the mirrors off, there should be a thin rubber pad between the mirrors and the nose fairing also.

Good luck
Tim

sevenfourate 02-Jun-2003 09:46

Rattler,
Ok,Superb.Perhaps i wasnt looking hard enough for the allen bolts.
Will take all the advice and remove the fairing completely aswell.(gives me a chance to clean up inside at the same time i guess).
Looks like i might need to get some shear bolts on order this mornin.Bit like insurance the shear bolts eh....you hope you never need to use them !

Thanks Guys.Regards Syer.

Rattler 02-Jun-2003 09:49

Syer....
 
The bolts will do you fine until you get them replaced.

It is better to get all the fairings off, the lowers are easily removed too, just 2 clips underneath and 4 at the top of each side.

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Tim:sing:

sevenfourate 02-Jun-2003 10:58

Does anyone know the shade of white that i will need on the nose-cone to match the white on the single seat unit ?
The unit is the 916 sp/sps,96/97 era with the "Campione del mondo superbike" stickers down the side.Its a very bright white,like a diamond white ?....or was that a really cheap cider with a high alchohol content we used to drink when we were teenagers ?

Thanks.Regards Syer

andy bentley 02-Jun-2003 15:20

Syer,

have you considered one of those stick on boards. Rip off of the century, but they are quite thick and all you need to put them on properly is a hairdryer...duckie.

I've had two on mine, as the first got ripped in it's recent punch-up with a mountain bike in the garage.

Proper Ducati Performance one as well. About £75 from memory, but they do repell stone chips better than just paint.

Andy

sevenfourate 02-Jun-2003 18:22

Thanks all.Got it off no problem as you all said.Being painted this week,bloke at sprayers said £90 - £95 with gold pinstripe to match seat unit and all clear coated afterwards.Said was about 4 hours work + paint and other consumables.Doesnt seem terrible to me.

Andy,
I did post a thread about the stick on's a while ago.The general consensus was telling me to get it painted - which i am having started today.Hows the bike by the way ?....Your post about the bike falling over started and "fighting" with a mountain bike" was one of the funniest things ive read on here.I had tears in my eyes (personal experience meant it was close to my heart).

Thanks all.Regards Syer.

andy bentley 03-Jun-2003 08:33

Syer,

the stick on number boards are superb. You can get grey or gold pinstripe, but you have to take your time, (like Grolsch), whilst putting it on. They are about 5 mm thick and are slightly soft to touch, but you can scratch off dried on flies. But it's horses for courses.

You weren't on the A12 around Ipswich on late Sunday afternoon were you? Saw another red SP looking version and a yellow 9 something. Both were going the other way. I think yours is yellow, or have I just offended you?

The bikes in good form thanks. Managed to get all the bits - cost £300 to fix in the end. Not cheap, but could of been worse.

I'm having a service at Carls on 20th June. Having one of those s****y gold chains fitted and wrestling with the idea of some titanium nuts for the sprocket. Jury's out on the nuts though.

Went for a run down to Clacton last night with a mate and his Senna. Superb night for it. He's getting some 'ceramat' to stuff his pipes with by the way. Mine don't need doing, but I'll get a sheet off him for when they do. Do you want a section while it's available. I was going to put it up for sale at about a fiver a piece just to cover costs. The whole roll is 90Kg and he's got to get it from Dagenham.

Let me know. I'm going to ride up to Carls on the 20th if you fancy it?

Speak to you

Andy


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