Clutch and Brake Lever
 

Can I adjust the position of my brake and clutch levers on the 748? I had a go last night but they didnt seem to want to turn on the clip-on. Have they got a position locator on the bar?

Yep, there's a small dowel in the bar that locates the lever mount.
Take the lever off and pull the dowel out. If it's really tight, cut it back and file it flush.
Tip the levers down a little so that when you're sat on the bike with your fingers resting on the levers your arms/wrists/fingers are in a straight line.
One of the easiest and most effective ways to stop the aching!!

Thanks for the reply Nelly, Should be a good little task for the weekend.

As the man says...I had to grind the dowels away on mine (with the bars off the bike!)...and repositioned them so that the levers just clear the indicators.

It amazes me how few people have actually done this...the original positioning of the levers in relation to the riding position on the 748/9** series is totally unatural and I found it very uncomfortable. 30 minutes...sorted.

[Edited on 2-4-2004 by Harv748]

[Edited on 2-4-2004 by Harv748]

After a bad wrist infury a few years ago now I also did the lever jobbie but also rotated the bars on the forks to allow my wrist to be in a more comfortable position.
Worked for me!

Bit of an update here.

While it was trying to create a flood of Noah's Ark intensity this weekend, I did this to my 998.

The job is a little more tricky than the 996.

LHS.
The fast idle lever assembly holds the bar clamp together, to remove this you first need to remove the left hand side switch gear with a little stubby screw driver from underneath to allow you access to the two screws holding the clamp together.
Once done the two bolts holding the bar in the clip on clamp can be removed and the bar extracted, you can not remove the bar completely due to the pin holding the assembly on the bar but this exposes the pin to allow removal.
I found that the best tool for this is a pair of sharp pincers. They allow you to grip the pin and work it out a bit at a time until it is out.
Refit as you removed the bar and accesories and set at the required angles.

RHS.
Remove the bolts on the bar clamp and wedge the front brake lever and master cylinder safely with a cloth etc.
To allow the removal of the pin, remove switchgear by undoing the two screws holding it together.
Once done the two bolts holding the bar in the clip on clamp can be removed and the bar extracted, this exposes the pin to allow removal.
Refit as you removed the bar and accesories and set at the required angles.

Hope this helps someone.

Job done, it took 45 mins in total. Moved sundry items on the left bar; removed clutch lever, loosened bar and turned 180deg to reveal the offending dowel. After WD-40/pliers/elbow grease, I came to the conclusion that drilling the dowel out was the way forward. I proceeded with a 3.5mm drill bit down the centre of the dowel and then a 4mm to finally open it up. The drill bit gripped the dowel which then came out on the end of the bit.

A similar procedure was done on the right hand bar. A little more difficult as you have to loosen the throttle and starter before getting to the front brake.

Not a big job really but very rewarding as the newly adjusted positions feel so much more natural now. I shall look to adjust the bar position next.

Thanks to all that advised on this point.