Help: bleeding rear brake line

[Henners]

You'd think I'd have this sussed by now but having fiited new brake lines to the 996 I can't get the rear line bled :mad: Tried everything and in the end gave up. Is there a kit that will draw the brake fluid through a new line or some other solution? Cheers H.

[nelly]

Take the rear wheel off. Remove the rear caliper and sit it on the top of the disc. This will put the bleed nipple at the top of the system.
The bleed as normal. It'll take some pumping at first, but once the fluid starts to flow, it'll come good...............

[GsxrAge]

As Nelly says :cool:

works everytime :cool:

[Henners]

Thanks guys - tried that, didn't work today although it has in the past.

The gifted Mr Alan Knight has been in touch with offers of assistance so the jobs a good 'un :D

[GsxrAge]

Originally posted by Henners
Thanks guys - tried that, didn't work today although it has in the past.

The gifted Mr Alan Knight has been in touch with offers of assistance so the jobs a good 'un :D


Ya can't be twisting your nipples right :o:lol::lol::lol:

[Jasper]

Did mine the other day!!4 hours to finally get it done!!:(

[Gizmo]

on mountain bikes we usually bleed backwards, attach a syringe filled with fluid via a plastic pipe to bleed nipple, open it and push fluid back to master cylinder. close just before you stop pushing syringe. on an mtb system its real small volume so even a small air bubble is noticed so pushing from low point of calliper lets air travel upwards . you'll need to make something to catch fluid as it exits at the resevoir, we had custom cap covers done with a hole and pipe attached to drain to a bottle.

[andyb]

Originally posted by Henners
You'd think I'd have this sussed by now but having fiited new brake lines to the 996 I can't get the rear line bled :mad: Tried everything and in the end gave up. Is there a kit that will draw the brake fluid through a new line or some other solution? Cheers H.

No HR answer to this one then? :lol::lol:

[Henners]

Thanks Michael - that'll be the way to go if Jasper and I are anything to go by.

Andy - we've had a focus group, consulted the key stakeholders, done a SWAT analysis and still no performance improvement. I've even threathened the offending caliper with a Haynes manual and still no joy. Looks like a strong talking to by a upstanding officer of the law is required. Any idea where I'd find one of those :puzzled::lol:;)

[Stu748R]

Yea,Box hill today.....................:bouncy::bouncy:

[keefer]

Stu aren't you in the wrong thread ?
any way looks like I will see you there.
just sipping on a large coffee now.
weather looks good.

[moto748]

Originally posted by nelly
Take the rear wheel off. Remove the rear caliper and sit it on the top of the disc. This will put the bleed nipple at the top of the system.
The bleed as normal. It'll take some pumping at first, but once the fluid starts to flow, it'll come good...............


I'm not one to argue with the experts, but why is it necessary/desirable to remove the wheel? I just unbolt the calliper and hook it over the pillion footrest; keeps it nice and high. Can do that with the wheel in place, though.

[loverobot]

is there any trick to bleeding the front brake and the clutch side of things?

[loverobot]

i guess not then ! lol

[Henners]

Sorry mate ... still trying to bleed the bleeder :mad:

If some kind soul has fitted a bleed point at the handlebar for either the front brake or clutch then the job is dead easy. If they haven't as is the case on the clutch side of my 996 - protect the area with kitchen towel to catch any drips, pull the clutch lever right in and gently release the brake line connecting bolt to let any trapped air out, nipping it up straight away before letting the lever back out again.

Now back to that soddin' rear brake of mine. I wouldn't mind if I knew it would be any use when fixed, it's that you can't get through a MOT or change the back wheel without the little F@*$~#!

[andyb]

Originally posted by Henners
Sorry mate ... still trying to bleed the bleeder :mad:

If some kind soul has fitted a bleed point at the handlebar for either the front brake or clutch then the job is dead easy. If they haven't as is the case on the clutch side of my 996 - protect the area with kitchen towel to catch any drips, pull the clutch lever right in and gently release the brake line connecting bolt to let any trapped air out, nipping it up straight away before letting the lever back out again.

Now back to that soddin' rear brake of mine. I wouldn't mind if I knew it would be any use when fixed, it's that you can't get through a MOT or change the back wheel without the little F@*$~#!

Call another meeting! Someones got to do the right thing.............and blame someone else for this!:lol::lol::lol:

[Henners]

Well, it gets worse :mad:

Stu's mate Kevin called round tonight and we spent 2 hours with pumps and all sorts of special tools trying to get the back brake bled and ... nothing :( This guy is a brake specialist and even he's stumped. Current theory is that something is amiss in the master cylinder but so far we haven't found it. Will keep on looking ...

Bugga :flame:

[andyb]

doesnt happen on a 999...............:frog:

[Henners]

What doesn't happen on a 999?

Pride of ownership perchance :lol::P

[loverobot]

did you sort this ?

i am having a similar problem
is on my 748
i thought i had sussed it but the rear brake locked on
is this because there was not enough clearance or is it likely because of ana ir bubble that expanded?

when i pump the pedal and bleed there are no air bubbles??

[loverobot]

btt