Excellent
After all this biking thing is only a hobby to me

Mav cheque went in the post today

no worries kev!!
Thanks mate.

Think ive still got some bits and pieces left like 1 R/h Dp foot peg and hanger and 1 Dp type rear brake pedal! etc

This can happen with stainless discs to, not just cast iron. I think your bike has the stainless rotors Ruth?
The cast are more prone, because they are ferrous, but the pads can suffer minor corrosion from damp and the scientific bit mentioned beforehand about disimilar metals reacting with each other also effects things.
Once you've freed the pads from the discs, have a look at the discs and you'll see the outline of the pads on the disc faces.
The grinding noise is from the pads rubbing over the now rough disc area where they were stuck. The surface of the pad has been "roughed up" where the corroded part was left on the disc face. As the pads are smoothed off again, and the disc face cleaned through use of the brakes, the noise will disappear.
Not too sure of the "stiff lever"............maybe it's just a feel thing whilst the pads are bedding down again?
I don't think it's sticky pistons though, as they'd be sticky all the while.........
It's not a real problem. The main thing'll be a slightly accelerated pad wear rate. Every time you break the pads free, you're ripping a layer from the pads rather than wearing them in the normal way.
If you wanted to prevent it, when you park it up or wash it, push the pads back in the calipers so they aren't touching the discs................................Just remember to pump the brakes a few time before you ride it again.



Maybe that last bit wasn't so clever :puzzled:

:rodent: "no 5hit Sherlock" :lol:

Steel is actually not a material in it's own right. It's the generic name for a group of ferrous metals principally composed of iron. So the majority content af steel is actually iron, which is, as we know, prone to rusting. In fact, most modern steels contain about 98% iron!

Stainless Steel.
Part of the manufacturing process for the type of steel we know as "stainless" is to introduce corrosion inhibiting elements (usually Chromium) into the process. This creates an alloy with, typically, the following elements:

Carbon: 0.03%
Manganese: 2%
Silicon: 1%
Chromium: 18-20%
Nickel: 8-12%
The rest is Iron.

So you see, whilst stainless steel is manufactured with corrosion inhibiting properties, it cannot be claimed to actually prevent corrosion altogether because this would depend upon the ammount of Chromium and the accuracy of the process. And nothing is perfect.

So this is why, as Nelly says, it can happen to steel discs too!

:frog:

I think it is a combination of corrosion & cold brake fluid the later makes the leaver feel woody & the pistons not return properly.
Chass.

Ruth, all these posts are bollox.

You're bike is simply upset that you put it to bed wet so it gets cold. Dry it off, get a garage heater and make sure it feels loved and this will never happen again.

Dr TP

Adjusting the chain on a 998 etc will indeed alter the ride height, however a 999 doesnt have this built in problem!! :P

Q. Blip throttle on down change
 

Q1. Why is this benificial

Q2. is it A. clutch in Blip, gear down, clutch out; or B. clutch in, gear, blip, clutch out.

bill, blipping the throttle takes the load off the gearbox when downchanging, you should feel the benifit when its timed right (it even suggests this in the owners manual of the 916!!)
the correct sequence is clutch in Blip, gear down, clutch out:)

(do i win £5?)

[Edited on 2-2-2005 by gasmanrus]

I may be wrong but I think the reason for blipping the throttle on a downshift is to match the engine revs to the gearbox which will be higher (as you have just downshifted) So I think the correct sequence is clutch in , gear down, blip, clutch out

An expert should be along..