well i have both front and rear paddock stands, i would have assumed easiest was to put it on rear stand to give better access/stability, but I am not certain why the front would need to be up, let alone why it would need to be up on an abba stand?

am i missing something obvious?

Lily, call Nelly, He'll explain all, it's not that difficult - if you have ALL the tools. Raeson they all saying you need an ABBA stand is that the conventional single sided stand goes in through the sprocket side, which means you can't get sprocket off with that fitted! However, I am fairly certain you could do most of this without needing a stand, especially if you can lean the bike on something on the right side to give you better access,

ahh, ok, i get ya....

would i not be able to put it on the stand and release everything, then when I am ready to remove and replace, pop it off the stand and onto side stand?

I don't think I have to remove the wheel do i?

will most likely be calling Neil anyway.

so, if I don't want to change any of the gearing, what am I looking at?

Someone suggested renthal sprocket would be better. Should I be changing front and rear?

what size chain...

sorry to be a pain...I am trying to learn!!

If you are happy with the current gearing then keep as is. If you'd like to experiment with different gearing get a quick change rear carrier.

I'd look at the STM quick change sprocket carrier too. I know that this item has the locking lugs to stop the potential moving and damaging other parts. Depending on how old the bike is you'll probably have to replace the cush drives as well (read £50). The chain size you require is known as '520'. The 99x series runs 525 chain. This denotes the thickness of the chain. Length is dependent on the sprockets you are running.

If you do fit larger sprockets (or smaller) then you might have to cut the chain to size or you might have to do this anyway. You also have to make sure the eccentric hub on the rear wheel is set right too as well as the chain tension.

Good on ya for tackling this. I wouldn't (because I'm crap at that sort of thing).

I'm running STM quick change sprocket carrier with STM sprockets and DID ERV gold chain.

Lily, you are right, you should be able to undo eveything except the big nut, for that you really need a socket, don't try it with a spanner, too easy to slip and round the nut.

I personally like the renthal sprocket carrier that repalces the crap Ducati original, the Renthal stops the cush drives moving and wrecking your hub. last time I was at Nelly's, he had some carriers. Suggest now is a good time to call him up. If you need any more advice, I would be happy to help, but I'm not even 10% the spanner man Nelly is.

Thanks for the help guys.

I will no doubt be giving Neil a call anyway, was just trying to gauge the benefits/ease/cost of my plans....

I know I need to do it soon as I have a tight spot on the chain and its looking a bit worse for wear.

Do I need to change front and rear at the same time?

God, I must be really getting on your nerves by now, but thanks for the answers. :bouncy:

Hi Lily, nice to see you getting your hands dirty!!

You don't need to change the front sprocket just because you change the rear, but for the sake of 7 quid you may as well!
If you want to stay standard you need a 94 link 520 O' ring chain plus the 36 tooth rear sprocket.
Personally I would highly recommend changing to a renthal or similar sprocket carrier, as, although the initial purchase is dear, it is cheaper in the long run, and you can chage your rear sprocket in a matter of minutes.
I would recommend a 96 link chain and a 39 tooth rear sprocket, it goes like a rocket and you can go up to42/43 without having to lenghthen the chain.
Try Terry@Redtec for a second hand carrier and sprockets, I got mine from him for £100 for a carrier and two sprockets, his number is 07974925835, and tell him I sent ya!! :P
If you have any woes, give us a shout :)

just to throw something else into the pot...

If you change the sprocket no. of teeth, and go for a bigger chain (more links), then you really should have the ride height re-set too.

Again, ask an expert (not me!) about this.

If you go for a quick-release sprocket carrier (I did), then one of the benefits is that when you want to change sprockets in the future, it's a dead simple job (10 mins) to DIY. No need to call in the "experts"!

I've got the AJR carrier, get some loctite too if you go with this :)

resetting the ride height isn't too challenging as long as you have the right tools ( heat gun was used a lot to loosen things off!!), take your time, and take a measurement before you do the sprocket change to set it back to with the new sprockets. I did this in conjunction with the guide on Section8's site.

My recommendation of 40 teeth was based on the fact that I'd forgotten the R runs a smaller rear than the rest of the 748's.

Although some say a 10% change is needed to feel the benefit, it really depends on what you want to achieve as each track may require different gearing.

i have had to tighten the chain a few times recently so I am guessing the ride height will have changed a few times anyway and this may be one of the reasons that I am not feeling so stable on the bike recently?

I seem to recall Phil Haith helping me with this before, but can't remember if there were some standard guidelines for this somehwere?

So... to summarise, it looks like I will be going for a 14 front, 38/39 rear a 520 DID erv gold chain (96 link) and a renthal quick release carrier that I should locktite on. I should also consider replacing the the cush drives?

If I am using a renthal carrier, should i go for renthal sprockets?


disclaimer.... when I say 'I' I don't necessarily mean me btw :D