I personally wouldn't go with EBC as I've always found their brake pads to be pretty wooden. Can't comment on the disks as I've never used them, but they are obviously attractive on their pricing, but you have to ask yourself why - cheaper materials? cheaper production? Bigger market share / less profit? I don't know, but I'll stick with Brembo stuff!

Jools gave some interesting tips there about the carrier bobbins - this may fix your problem. Get a tin of Braker Cleaner (aerosol spray) from your local car parts place or Halfrauds and use a toothbrush on them as suggested. No need for WD40 as the brake cleaner will work just as well.

You should be able to check by gently applying the brakes (dragging) and you may feel it pulsing back at the lever if the disk is warped. If not, it may be your bobbins - the test equipment probably doesn't exert enough force on the disks to align them on the sticky bobbins unlike the braking force.

Worth a shot, and cheaper than new disks!

Everyone's saying, replace discs as a pair. Why?

I wrecked a disc on my bike when it was fairly new, ie, around 10k miles maybe, (just don't ask, right? ;) ), and I replaced just the one disc. The bike was still under warranty then, and the dealer's never felt the need to say, oh, you'd better replace both discs as a matter of course.

Obviously if your "other" disc is on it's last legs anyway, it'd make sense to change them as a pair. but if it's serviceable, I see no reason why the brakes won't work fine with one replaced only.

Check the thickness against the minimum value which should be stamped on the carrier. Use a micrometer, though: a vernier gauge will pick up the ridge at the edge. In all honesty, the difference between "min" thickness and "max" (ie, new) thickness is pretty small anyway (0.5mm?), so you'd never have two wildly different discs.

Discs aren't cheap after all. I'd stick with Brembos, though.

Whoa! Don't get your wallet out just yet mate (spoken like a true Yorkshireman!). I am assuming that the "warped disc" showed up during the brake test. As far as I know the only certain way to ascertain whether a disc is warped is to put a dial gauge on the fork leg, rotate the wheel and measure the run out which can then be checked against the manufacturers allowed tolerance. This does not form part of the MOT.

If, as I suspect, the problem manifested itself on the brake test when the tester felt a pulsing through the brake lever then the cause could be glazed pads. I recently was getting a pulsing through the lever when braking and even a slight judder at the front end when coming to a halt, which was getting progressively worse. The cure (as suggested to me by Keefyb) was to have the pads out and clean them up, either to cure the problem or at least eliminate them from the diagnosis. Out they came, pad faces rubbed with some coarse emery, finished with a steel brush, and the backing plates cleaned and a dab of copper grease smeared over. Took it for a test and hey presto! – no pulsing and no judder.

If however, you do end up needing new discs I was keeping an eye on a set on ebay (just in case). The seller is siren110876 and the auction finishes on 8th May.:D

arghhhhh!!!!
LOL
I have just bought the discs from pro twins including pads all round £466 wife wasnt best pleased.

thanks Creosote may have a set for sale very shortly LOL

cough..... How much ???


Jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez

tell me about it !

works out like this £329 plus vat for the discs (later s and sps version )

carbon loraine pads both front and rear

delivery

£466

Plus ill be doing the work

The summer better be a good long one this year !!!