what if you have both wheels on paddock stands then smarty pants

plus im too unfit to be able to support the bike and bend down to check levels

and how is it a 1 man job if the bike needs to be upright without the use of a stand

Well if I wasn't confused before.......!

Hoping it's the plugs but will let you know tomorrow. Get nervous about lack of oil coz have had a screeching when I pull away which I put down to clutch but could the lack of oil not indicate a howl from the transmission as suggested in Haynes or is my imagination getting the better of me.................

anyway will hopefully know tomorrow.

Thanks guys.

Just purchased a membership on the back of all the help I've had so far so free drinks at the bar..........and from a scotsman on a yellow duke. Jeez. Whatever next.

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D

screeching sounds like clutch. You should be able to hold the bike fairly upright and get a good gaze at the window before dropping it back down on the side stand. Did it all the time with my SS. Can do it with the ST4 as well though there is more weight. Get the bike reasonably upright and see if the oil is somewhere between the marks every time you ride if you have an oil consumption problem (or even if you don't). Just takes a sec in the morning.

Screeching is deffo the clutch.

Two stands would work for the oil as well!!

just out of interest how much oil did you have to put back in to make it come up to the required level ?

Now had a chance to look at it - olnly took around 1/2l oil so no panic after all with this!

Think the problem may be with the HT lead. It doesnt seem to connect with the plug very well. When the plug is out the lead 'snaps' on to the plug and the spark is fine but back in the bike it just seems to sit in the casing without snapping on to the lead. Wondered if this could be due to it being yanked in and out too often (stop it!) and the connector/lead has been pulled too far back up the sleeve - if that makes sense. Has anyone else had this problem?

Time to buy a new lead I guess - any recommendations or is it back to Nelly for more stuff?

D

I recommend the Magnecor wires.

http://www.magnecor.co.uk/default.htm

Straight, multi-stranded, unshielded wire conductors offer theoretical gains, but produce lots of electromagnetic interference (EMI). The big problem is with the computer found used on fuel injected bikes as the radiated EMI can interfere with the computer and corrupt signals which can affect engine performance. The concern also goes for non-resistor plugs. Theoretically, they can provide more power, but the reality is that the noise produced can corrupt computer sensor signals and computer operation itself. It also raises hell with the radio in the vehicle next to you.

Thanks Shaz

Presumably they can supply the boots either end or do I have to canabilise the ones I have?

As a matter of interest can someone tell me whether they get a positive connection with the plug i.e. you can feel it snapping on to the plug when it's installed as I'm fairly sure this is where the problem lies - not so much with the wires themselves. It's almost as if the rubber collar is preventing the lead going far enough into the chamber?

Ta (again)

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djb>

As far as checking oil is concerned, I've said it before, but just use a small "shaving" type mirror. Prop it at about 45 degrees (against a wall?) on the floor by the side of your bike. Sit astride the bike and look at the sight-glass in the mirror. I can do this quite easily even in the dark, by shining a torch on the mirror. You have to wait a while for the oil level to move up, especially when the oil is cold. If you're too impatient, you may panic yourself into thinking that the level's lower than it really is.

BTW even on bikes without quick-release fuel fittings (mine's like that), there's no need to drain the tank to remove it. Honest!