When i have the panniers on then i drop the can down to its lowest position which is the hole in the pannier frame, not the hole where the frame mounts to the footrest.

The gap between the tyre and the garage floor - looks like a bit more than the 10mm i thought it was!

Get your spanners out man!
:lol:

Looks like i might have to!!

Cheers guys.

I did try the cans on the centre position, but while there is a small clearance between cans and panniers, it is pretty difficult to fit them so put the cans back to the lower position.

I should appologise too. I was wrong about the stand. The rubber bung on the left exhaust pipe is not actually the stop as I thought it was, so raising the pipes doesn't lift the stand by much.

Now, raising the ride height. I did my adjustment using the rear linkage rod. I think I should have really wound the height up using the C spanner on the shocker though, so might correct this one evening this week.

Cheers guys.
John.
p.s. side pod bag turned up on Satyurday, so stashed all the tie wraps, spare bulbs, tape etc in there already.:D

No you were right John..the ride height is adjusted by the tie rod...the twin locking collets on the shock body ( which I've never touched ) I think are for major changes to spring preload - they will move the hydraulic preload adjuster body up or down - then you can use the hydraulic knob for fine adjustment.
( Changing the rear preload will affect rear ride height somewhat as it is reducing or increasing the amount of static sag in the suspension )

John, sorry to join this thread late. I got my suspension set up by John Hackett, its probably the same as Monty's settings as JH used his bike originally.

If you want these settings to try let me know. The increased ride height is the most important as it greatly improves ground clearance and improves the steering no end.

I've recently had mine resprung and revalved, more because it was due for a service than being hugely unhappy (and trying to improve it further).