Rear wheel later type with bearings and cush drive no sprocket or disc is 6.35kg

Early type in the same condition is 7.10 kg

Don't have a later front to weigh.

Late front with bearings without discs 4.8 kg

weight,
 

I have the early wheels on my bike, I think that it is the best handling bike I've ever had, It's certainly the most fun I've ever had on a bike. I've had to completely re-think my philosophy about bikes, I've always wanted the newest fastest bikes out there, not any more!

Lighter wheels:

Do they make a difference?

Do you think it makes a difference to lap times?

How about race position?

They say the biggest improvement you can make to your bike is the rider.........

I want to say “ride what you've got, and like it” but I too keep spending money, but I'm trying to stop.

Mat 72

Defo the rider Matt. Mr Traynor and Harriet had/have the earlier wheels as does Cleggy they all go well. I think the difference would be 3/5ths of F*** all.

Race day - Just have an extra big poo...

Early front with bearings without disc 5.18kg

Just to add to this: Tyre and one disc on brings it up to 10.8kg

Early rear with tyre sprocket and disc is 15kg less the tyre is 9.45kg

This is getting very anorak....y :)

Performance Bige Mag June 09.
Comparison of an R1 with standard and Carbon wheels.
4.5kg difference for £2 grand !!!!!

It did give an improvement of 1.5 seconds in laptime, made it easier to turn and improved acceleration (centrifugal effect I suspect) and allowed later braking (less rotating mass).
You can spend £2 grand on engine mods and not get the same peformance upgrade???

3/5ths is all you need in DD racing if it puts you 1/2 a bike length in front of the other guy/girl .............

Agreed 100%.

In a single make class weight saving is one area where you can differentiate one bike from the others. All you have to do is take stuff off!!! - its easy ;)

It'll really help getting the bike off the line and out of corners.

Saying that, it was probably my third year in DD when the bike had been stripped down completely and rebuilt that I weighted any part that went on the bike.

Just consider every part of the bike and see if any parts can be easily removed or swapped for lighter items. On my DD620, I managed to shave around 16KG of weight (2.5 stone!!!!) off by going through this process.

The major savings would be exhaust, swingarm, disk/caliper and battery too, but it all adds up and you need to consider every mount and bolt. Do you really need that hugger? Chain guard? crash bungs? Battery box? Heavy exhaust mounts? Use cable ties where bolts/brackets are not necessary.

Tim

I hope to be getting around to following Tim's Tips/Advice later in the season, providing I can do it cheaply. in the mean time I'm after improving the engine output, not just the BJp but the way it delivers it, with 10.4 to 1 Air fuel ratio is a s Wooly as a sheeps fleece.


At Donington my bike was 14% down on the class power Limit and 15% over the minimum weight for Class A.
Currently trying to address the power deficit and will look into a bit of weight saving later in the season once I'm happy with the engines output.