I thought the consensus was that a slipper is generally less suitable *for road use* than a stock clutch.

No?

Only because they wear the plates quicker

The correct order for the plates is thus.

With a slipper always start with a friction plate.
Then a plain pressure plate, friction plate, then a dished plate, dot towards you. then friction, pressure, friction until the 2nd from last plate which should be a dished plate, dot away from you, one final friction and then final plain pressure plate. Measure the distance from the last plate to the face of the center hub. It should be 4 - 5mm. If this is more and your dished plates are in good nick, ie not flat. Add an extra pressure plate, or put one 3mm plate in and remove a 2mm plate. Check the condition of the pressure plates, look for scoring caused by the sintered plates. If any are scored swop them over for a none scored one. Pedro recentley had the same problem. He's dished plates where knackered and the plain plates where scored to foook. He invested in a set of carbon plates and hasn't looked back:)

[Edited on 30-6-2004 by Jon]

Thanks for all your comments. Today straight home from work side cover off and open clutch cover off, removed all plates.
Tomorrow will start again. Please can you confirm that a friction plate will be last. Next to pressure plate :puzzled: my set-up was not like this as last plate was a plain plate then pressure plate.
This could be the problem;)

no. A plain driven plate will be last, else the friction plate will eat the alloy pressure plate.

Regarding the order of plates the attachment was sent from Sigma regarding their slipper. It suggests that a plain plate next to the final pressure plate. :puzzled:
Any one else who runs friction plate next to pressure plate ?:puzzled:

Having now spent nearly a week with this, I seam to have found the cause. As with standard Ducati clutch when you accelerate from a standing start the pressure plate pushing against the plates stops slip. Most of the ramp style slipper clutches should be the same at launch, but due to the torque the slipper clutch opens up for a short period then shuts. This is what causes the squeal and slight slip. I found this out by placing various thicknesses of spacer between the clutch hub and bell washer near spider spring to alter the free play. My delema is now having tried a slipper going into corners much prefere to standard clutch. So it seams put up with the clutch slip at start or have fun with rear wheel lockup. Unless anybody out there knows any different without spending any more money on different style slipper clutches.

STM EVO with the single central spring?

Don't get that with mine. Standard 6 spring design (no ball bearings).