Another couple of hours wiring today, so both coils and both injectors are now wired along with the engine Temp sensor, Fuel Pump, Start Solenoid, Injection Relay and handlebar switch gear.
The Run button controls the Injection relay and pressing the start button brings in the starter solinoid.
Wires are also in for the Neutral and oil pressure LEDs and also the temp gauge and tacho.

Still have to add wires to the ECU connector for MAP/Air temp sensor but apart from that there's not much else to do apart from switched feeds for the direct powered transponder and lap timer and the charging system

Still trying to decide with which Reg/Rec to go with

always a good sign when they start first push of the button, despite the lack of exhaust, engine temp sensor, air temp and pressure sensor :)

Bet the neighbours love you

Doubt if its a problem as nobody could hear the bike above the neighbours stereo or their lad racing around the streets on his Minimoto

Just swapped the Shock, Ohlins with remote reservoir out and Ohlins with piggyback reservoir and adjustable length in

I found raising the rear by a couple of mil made a massive difference to the ss ..

Is the fork angle / height on the monster the same as the ss?

Fork offset on the later Monsters is the same as the SS (unlike the early monsters).
Rake (Fork angle) I haven't checked to see what is standard but set mine using front and rear ride height to get what I want, which is a lot easier to do on a Monster than a SS

How much did you raise the rear by and what did you feel?

as you know, I've got Deans old Maxton shock which is 5mm longer than standard with another 15mm of adjustment, I have tested it on a track day and now have it wound it fully out, this has raised the rear by 28mm at the seat, I have also raised the front by 10mm for more ground clearance.

I find that I now feel much more in touch with the front tyre, I can push more weight onto the front in corners allowing me to keep a higher mid corner speed, beforehand I felt that the front tyre was on the limit of grip and all the weight was sat back on the rear, which pushes you wide mid corner making you throttle off to pull it back in.

that's about where I'm at at the moment.

I'm still not sure why I'm so slow at the moment but I'm hoping that this will have helped.

Its in yer head Matt, simple. Have a good session of balls out and back to the froont you'll be...too much natural corner speed not to be

I understood the first bit, agree with the second bit, whats the third bit mean?

Theres 12mm of adjustment on the ohlins .. I uncreased the length by about 4mm to try and found it just about right so left it at that

the front forks are at standard height

Puts more weight on the front quickens the steering .. drops into corners a lot easier and the front feels a lot more planted

Thats pretty extreme

One too many shandies? :lol:

in my honest opinion though, I've been about bikes for over 20 years, probably the first 15 of those I didn't know my arse from elbow. But the things I've learned since I started racing... what I never learned was how to be fast... I always was.

for years I'd been watching people paying suspension 'experts' money to click a few nobs and turn a few screws and thought it was a load bollox. until one day a friend wasted his money and said it was so good he'd pay for the bloke to look at my fireblade, it was amazing, I couldn't believe how much better it was.

the first couple of rounds this year I thought it was me, not pushing, being careful and being out of practice. I have drawn on my years of experience and decided that a lot of my lost speed is my new bike a bit this year is not set up properly, maybe the bike makes more difference than I previously believed.

Not as experienced at racing, but it made a world of difference to me. To the point of I started taking liberties a little, and a couple of visits to the med centre, but all driven by confidence in the bike working so well under me.

SS very different to a monster chassis too imo having ridden both

Spent my first couple of years on stock suspension .. all it did was wreck my confidence in the front end .. the standard ss springs are awful and every time i started to push a bit i ended up on my arse.

That said i've raced with guys who can seemingly jump on any old pile and still go fast.

The one thing i can say for certain tho is that there's not that big a difference between the front riders and mid pack in DD .. I was running at the pointy end at oulton (3rd) and donny (4th) after the crash at cadwell on the sat i only buttoned it off a little bit for the races on the sunday but was fighting for 16th

If you believe it .. it's true

*legs crossed sitting in a room of candles*

Like I said to you in the Cadwell collecting area your bike was to low at the back

Standard shock length for Deans bike was 330mm so 5mm longer takes it up to the length of a SSie shock at 335mm. Adding 15mm to take it to 350mm makes it the same length as Dallas use to run his Nitron at in his 600SS Class B bike that then became his 620 Class A bike

interesting.... obviously you can go too far, but does anyone know what happens when you do?

Best money I ever spent was sending the suspension away (to Racing Lines) and having the fork springs and shock spring changed, forks and shock serviced (new oil, seals, etc) and setup properly for my weight.

Everyone that rode it said it was the best handling bike they'd ever ridden!

It's amazing that some people still don't even change their suspension to see what effects they feel, let alone have them setup properly.

I sent my class b bike off to race-lab and it was awesome, my class A bike HM racing rebuilt and sprung my shock, but no set up, I did it my self, probably not very well though.

for my new class a bike I kept the forks from my old bike and used the std road shock which didn't work for me, my new shock is pretty cool.

Racing lines have done a lot of stuff for me this year. Great bunch of guys and hoping to get the bike back in there at the end of season to get the suspension sorted.

Mark
:)

You fall off

when you accelerate you get weight transference to the rear which causes it to squat. I read somewhere years ago, that you also get 'anti-squat' caused by the torque of the engine pulling the chain against the rear sprocket which pulls the rear wheel forwards and pushes the swinging arm downwards, (have you ever noticed the rear of the bike lift up on the dyno) if you raise the rear ride height you change the angle of the swinging arm changing the squat and anti-squat. which may cause you to fall off so 10 out of 10 bradders..

just what i've read,,,, I know not what i'm talking about,,,, I should fit in the paddock quite well :)

[quote=mat2hew]when you accelerate you get weight transference to the rear which causes it to squat. I read somewhere years ago, that you also get 'anti-squat' caused by the torque of the engine pulling the chain against the rear sprocket which pulls the rear wheel forwards and pushes the swinging arm downwards, (have you ever noticed the rear of the bike lift up on the dyno)QUOTE]
So does the squat and anti-squat cancel each other out :confused:

it shouldn't 'coz you want a curtain amount, there should be more squat than anti squat,

I recon that somebody who knows what they are talking about should answer that.

Keith Code (of CSS fame) says that the rear increases in height under acceleration due to torque acting on the pivot of the swingarm.

This makes sense, and he challenges those who don't believe him to put the front wheel against a wall and try accelerating to see which way it goes!

The reason behind him telling you this is to back-up his rule about weight transfer and positive throttle through a corner; by keeping a positive throttle through the corner you maintain your weight balance as well as improving ground clearance.

now,,,, in reverse to that,, when you pull the front brake the weight transfers to the front and the front goes down and the back goes up, which is pretty obvious but what happens when you use the rear brake? why? and how can we use that to our advantage?

Does that not depend on how your rear caliper is mounted
usually 4 options
Fixed mount above the swingarm
Fixed Mount below the swingarm
Floating mount above the swingarm
Floating mount below the swingarm

any of which will act as anti wheelie and ideal for rotating the front to land the back edge of a table top jump correctly

This is total tosh ..

If you put the front wheel against a wall the back end will rise because your shortening the wheelbase ..

Opening the throttle loads the back shock and it will sag ..

The rotational forces will try and pivot the bike around the rear spindle and the change in the centre of gravity plus the accelerational forces are transferred via the shock

Lol .. bet it's a while since you've done that kev

Never did get that one fully sorted and yes its been a few years since I've had a dirt bike, probably shows as they were great for winter training