How did you get on with 'that bolt' then Dave...any joy?

I would put some diagonal braces in your framework to prevent it "parallelogramming" - there's nowt as strong as triangles when it comes to structural frameworks!

R X

Chaps,

Just a couple of thoughts with regards to shot blasting and powder coating my frame;
Do I need to preserve the small silver sticker on the right hand side of the frame (this details part of the chassis number) or can I 'lose' it?
Also is there a need to preserve the chassis number on the headstock during the same process as I am not sure whether it will get 'lost' or not, what do you think??
Regards Frazelli:puzzled:

on the 916 type the frame extends down on to the swinging arm piviot.on the 888 it dose not,so on the 916 the swiniing arm stays atached to the frame with the engine removed.on the 888 with the engine removed you have the frame going one way,and the swining arm going the other,its only held togeather by the surspenion linkage.makes it interesting when refitting the engine.

frazelli. I lost the sticker on my frame, it did worry me at first but I needed a new shiny frame more. with regard to the chassis number there was no need to cover that up. its quite deep any way and the shot should not affect it. just make sure you mention it to them so they can take it a bit more gently around that area

Daft question time...

Looking at the swingarm spindle, there is a 'nut' at one end and an allen key head at the other.

With the nut removed off the RH end, does the bolt now need unscrewing or should it pull/push straight out. Just wandering if I need to get an allen key the right size or not? If I do , what size is it...I seem to remember 19mm, but don't know where from...may have just amde that up!:P:frog:

it should just pull through but turning it will help it on it way.
if you have the tool kit that came with the bike the spark plug tool will fit it when turned upside-down, then put a socket over it

Sorry mate, been away on a training course (not Ducati:lol:)

Bolt came out dead easy no force or hacksaw needed.

Right,

I need to drain the clutch so I can remove the frame (and replace it with a Brembo jobbie) where is this done and how do you remove all the top yoke?

TTFN
Dave :smug:

The top yoke is just the two pinch bolts on either side. Then it may need just a gentle tap from underneath to get it moving then it just pulls off the forks. If you mean the bottom yoke as well, then you need to undo the steering stem nut (the big one in the biddle of the yoke) and the stem and the bottom yoke will fall through the bottom of the steering head. Be a little carefull here as the steering head bearings have a habit of coming out with it...and they can be in a bit of a state and you can end up with ball bearings everywhere! This is obviously with the forks removed.

You should just be able to remove the current m/s for the clutch and put the new one on if you are carefull, without spilling too much fluid. Then just top it up and bleed it all through with fresh stuff. If its a brembo radial jobbie then you can bleed it at the top as well as the bottom by the slave cylinder.

Didn't bother taking my engine out in the end. I was able to strip everything off it in situ...and after trying to move the bolt without success...didn't see the point in pursuing it further as all I wanted to do is clean it!!!

Its looking sweet now though:bouncy:

[Edited on 3-11-2005 by Harv748]

Cheers Harv.

Post some pics mate, Ill show you mine if you show me yours :lol::lol::lol:

...i've seen yours mate...its all blue and funny lookin'!:o

[Edited on 3-11-2005 by Harv748]

frame
 

I've got the frame out :o

Never in my life have I done this before, now that was the easy part it's just remembering where everything goes!

:lol:

That piccie makes me laugh...its like you've left it out over night and the thieving chav scum have had away with all the bits!

:lol:

Good on ye' though...

:lol:

Here's another one for you all... Whilst my engine (748B) is out of the frame etc is there anything worth doing to it to enhance performance, anything that is not too costly though!!!??

Seeing as it's Friday is the virtual bar open yet? If so I'll have a Stella please!

Swap it for a 996/998:P

Only kidding but someone alot more technical will be along soon I'm sure.

OK here goes...a few piccies.

Got the OK this year to do the work in my girlfriends parents empty heated/powered barn conversion!!!:smug:

If Carlsberg built garages...

This piccie actually makes me laugh...this is the bike PRIOR to it being stripped and cleaned!:o

Uhm...

...and nearly there:bouncy:

Nice one Harv,
you got it back together yet?

Just need to find a reasonably priced powder coater to do all the bits and pieces, I think gloss black (at the moment)

Not yet mate...now going through the process of cleaning and replacing bolts etc for either stainless or titanium...yum!

The best thing about having the barn to do it in is that there is no hurry...I can leave it in there for as long as I need. I reckon another 6 weeks and then it will be slowly coming back together...probably pressing that start button for the first time around mid Jan.

Really enjoyng it though...going over and doing perhaps 5 or 6 hours a week, just taking my time. Currently sorting out stainless fitting for all the banjos on the bike. Going to pick them up this afternoon.

Where are you getting all your gear (nuts + bolts) from?

I should probably replace a load of mine as I've gone to all this effort so far!

Most of the stainless stuff I bought as a job lot for a Ducati sometime ago off ebay...I'm only using them for non-stresses areas...mainly cosmetic stuff. Other bits came from Nelly, and some from M&P (who I find useless most of the time...but good for somethings!). They do packs of stainless bolts etc...if they haven't got any in they can get them for you I'm sure within a day or two.

They also so the single/double and bleed nipple type banjo fittings for all of your hoses...actually supplied by Earls. Thats where I'm off to this afternoon to pick up a load for the f/brake, r/brake and clutch fittings. Not too bad price wise either.

I actually haven't bought any titanium yet, but will be doing so over the coming weeks. Will probably talk to JHP about these (he usually has a range in stock) as I don't want some micky mouse bolts where quality/strength is needed!

Stripdown..? an IKEA RUG..???..you philistine Harv...:lol:

Seriously..good to see you lads helping each other out..this is a forum working at its best I suppose..exchanging notes and dishing out advice..good on yer..

Nat

:lol: The rug was due to be chucked that week when I came up with a cunning plan...:eureka:

Right, I've got what appears to be the bottom part of the headstock bearing stuck on the bottom of my bottom clamp. (a lot of bottoms going on here, s****** s******)

How can I get it off? andhow much are new bearings?
There was somethig else but I can't remeber now:puzzled:

Cheers folks.

D

that's the bearing race.
why do you want to remove it ?
if it is not damaged leave it on there
if it must come off then some heat and a wee tap with a hammer and driver, but be very careful not to damage the bottom face of the yoke

oops!

The outer got a little bent around the edge.
As the bottom is going to be painted/powdercoated I thought the heat from this proccess would have melted the rubber edge anyway. :puzzled:

We had an impromptu strip down yesterday...............
Customer bike in for some winter fettling. Bodywork was already off, exhaust system had gone off to polishers.
Heads and barrels were already off for the originally planned fettle.
The decision was taken to powder coat the frame at 1 and by 4.00 the frame was on the floor :)
Loom off, rear subframe stripped bare and removed, headlight assembly off in one piece, footpegs, rear brake, hugger etc. all off then dropped the engine out.
Remove the top yoke, and slide the whole headstock/forks/wheel/brakes assembly out of the frame.
Take out the suspension linkage bolt and the shock/swingarm/wheel is all that's left.
Not a bad afternoons graft that :)

Might take a little longer to put back together though :lol:

o yes the seal ring (930.1.004.1A) forgot about that.
there is the part number.
if you do end up mullering the baring race keep it so you can turn it upside down and use it as a drift to seat the new one

Might take a little longer to put back together though :lol: [/quote]

I'm sooooo looking forward to that bit!!!

This is the little bugger I was on about

everything in it\'s place
 

I'm sooooo looking forward to that bit!!! [/quote]

How do I remove the hub and all the bushes/bearings from the swingarm :rodent:

Cheers

I'm sooooo looking forward to that bit!!! [/quote]

Just started mine mate...but its gonna take a while. Got a few bits and pieces either on order/still trying to source/waiting till i can afford them etc., but its slowly coming back together...great fun:roll::puzzled::(

[Edited on 15-11-2005 by Harv748]

The hub is pretty easy to take out. Remove the big circlip that holds the rear caliper hanger in place, slde that off with the two washers and o-rings, make sure the hub is free to turn and tap it out of the swingarm.
None of the bearings are easy to remove and check. If yo remove them, you'll more than likely bugger them.
Check them in situ, grease them and you should be OK.
They aren't cheap, so taking them out for the sake of it will be an expensive job.

None of the bearings are easy to remove and check. If yo remove them, you'll more than likely bugger them.


Yep there buggered now:mad:
I think I had to remove them as the swingarm is going off for powder coating. (please tell me that's right)
So Nelly....mate.....I'm after some new bearings, how much are they pleeeeaase.

Cheers

Dave

Oops :puzzled:

Could you drop me a mail with the bike details and i'll take a look tomorrow for you.
I'll tell you at the end of the week if it's necessary to remove the bearings before powder coating......................... i've got one being done this week.
I always leave bearings in, especially if they are going to knacker when removing them. It makes the masking easier. Use them as possible sacrificial masks. I make further masks to cover them, and the powder coaters "understand" and sometimes you get away with it.
Do the same with seals and inspection glasses on engine cases. Makes post paint assembly a lot easier. It takes ages to clean cured powder coat from seal and bearing faces :flame:

Cheers Nelly, send you a mail tomorrow.

:(

Dave
sent the mail mate. cheers

[Edited on 15-11-2005 by dave996]