I set the Class B Anglesey record with the heaviest tank on the list.... As I have said on more than one occasion, it may give a slight advantage, but weight and power aren't the whole story when it comes to going fast.

but it helps.

Imagine how much faster you would have been on Phils or Kevs bikes? May only be tenths but every little counts...and Dave's is a very well put together, 53 hp and fairly light bike too....which he can ride ;)

.... But when most of us can make up 2secs a lap just from our frame of mind, those tenths don't make a massive difference.... Just my opinion, and mainly relative to DD.

2 secs off your lap records?!

@ Chaz - so these St etc forks - you reckon worth the investment to get a set and have rebuilt rather than have a std set rebuilt?

Trouble is, you need someone around who knows what happens when you change things and what affect they will have. I guess there must be some basics which most can learn?

Yep mental attidude does help, my fat arse and 43bhp never did though. nor did my complete lack of fitness............ Role on next year :rolleyes:

No... Because obviously to set a record your attitude is already positive. My point is why would I win a race, then Phil, then Kev, then you, then Alan, then Hugh, then Dave..... Our bikes don't change, just our relative frame of mind.

of this there is no doubt; confidence and comfort on and with a bike is by far the most important thing

Mustn't forget one of the main requirements to a good handling bike is the Sprung to Unsprung weight ratio, especially when only having limited suspension mods.
After all the Sprung weight is what the suspension is forcing against and is used to damp out the suspension forces.
Heavy wheels with heavy tyres and built up momentum contain alot of force that when deflected by a bump trys to lift the weight above them, so if the wheels, discs. sprockets etc (unsprung Mass) are on the heavy side and the frame, tank, bodywork etc (Sprung Mass) are to light the bike may accelerate fast, stop quickly and change direction quickly but that doesn't mean it will handle well.
So if funds are limited you have to decide what direction to go in and spend it wisely.
Things that save weight and help handling should be top of the list, such as the weights of the discs (or disc), wheels, swingarm, mudguard, rear sprocket, etc
Take a Close look at Ghostys bike and you can see he not only had a light tank but also reduced the weight of several unsprung components .

Most of the weight saving on my 998R is to do with the unsprung components, Mag wheels, Narrow track discs, Mag swing arm, carbon front fender, Titanium bolts where sensible to do so, AP rear race caliper, Alloy rear sprocket. These components not only reduce overall weight and gyroscopic weight but they also reduce the forces that the suspension has to deal with so lighter springs can be used which in turn makes it easier to control with the damping

Before or after you found it to be underweight?! ;) ...because after, he added unspeung weight and it didn't seem to upset it too much.

Probably offset by the extra braking capacity
As you have pointed out Ron, on these bikes these things don't make a huge amount of difference, tuning the rider is far more important, the bike just needs to be in the right ball park

It was 2Kg under at Snetterton, I fitted a spare caliper, no disc and a spare chain under the seat. But rules is rules and like most these days I had not the luxury of weighing equipment since my departure from Ricardo.

So after Snett, I decided if ballast must be added then might as well make it useful so went for a fully operational twin disc setup. Used Cadwell and Castle to get used to it. Then at Oulton made all my passes that mattered under braking at the same chicane. It was weighed and dyno'd after Oulton, with 160Kg and 48bhp.

These are what you need. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-748...em4ab0f dcf0f

And before you say they won't fit! all you need to do is change the top stanchions & preload adjusters for SS & you would have a great pair of forks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3207940164... 4.m1423.l2648

These are what I run in my 800 monster & they are great.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gone!

Didn't take long... :)

Thanks Chaz,I have made an offer last night on a ST2 set and if I get them for the money they will be going to Maxton or KTECH (which is best???) for full rebuild to my weight etc

funny how almost every bike was first on the dyno at 53hp....then later all were 48hp....coincidence?!

Doubt it
The Parkitt Dyno works on a strange system and uses 3000 rpm as a calibration point.
One of the first DD bikes on it was my 600 Monster Class B bike as ridden by the journo at Brands Test day.
This bikes tacho wasn't accurate, several other bikes that were among the first to use the Dyno had no Tachos what so ever and as the Dynos Ignition pick up system was off for repair, the start of the DD database was a bit offset as the 3000 rpm calibration point was guessed at.
Over time as more and more readings were taken with more accuracy the offset was gradually corrected and readings became more accurate, with the figures trending downwards.

The Dyno operators also had a few initial issues getting the conversion between DIN and SAE sorted

The reading of my Class A bike at Pembrey was only tenths of a bhp lower than that given on the DWR Dyno at 61.3 bhp which is about what I expect from mainly home brew setup. Could probably eek a bit more out on the dyno if I add another Lambda port and get both cylinders mapped individually

Mine was always 48. At DWR and the 3 times I was tested after a race.... Actually, that is a lie, because when tested at Btands mine was 43bhp!! (which is probably due to the issues Skids just posted)

Is that parkitt as in park it in a laybay and forget becuase its not operated correctly? I have numerous bikes on three different dynos and each run on each dyno was within 0.5bhp of the other two. The parkit thing does seem a bit amateur............No RPM reading even at anglesey...........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Ducat...em3cbf3 eb4bf

Maybe the Hants guys could ask for a bit of Sponsorship from Moto Rapido No money just goods
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Per...em2a16c 8e4a3

Well i know of a certain person working at motorapido that is going to race this season in b class. His bike is currently in a million pieces getting full engine rebuild.

wouldn't fit tho without lots of mods

Probably no harder to fit than a 916 tank

Was chatting with Steve Hilary about him last Saturday

That will be the second DD engine they have in a Million bits the other being a 620 Multistarda having its crank cases changed

The crankcases look so much better than when I had them......should have charged more for them!!

Probably find there Faster now as well :lol: :p

Just like the engine I just sold, I can watch it vanish into the distance :)

I love all this budget racing................full engine rebuilds by pros just to keep costs down of course;)

Not me, I haven't paid a penny to anyone for engine work, just Dyno setup

maybe it shows, but more likely its the rider :)

Nor me, but I'm just a tight arse. :D

and you boys can do all your own...some of us mere plebs have to pay people ;)

Hmmmm loverrrly.

Kev, would you know if that's the standard tank outlet - I know its 851 territory, but I figure you know Corsa gear better than anyone!

Its a shame I only won an Alloy 900ss tank a while back, as I'm thinking (at some time) of turning my Keihin FCR's to run gravity, even though I didnt have leakage issues previously. Sorry, enough blather ;)

Frank you would need to ASK Ron Jolley as it was his tank on Ebay the one he fitted to his DD bike after his Pembrey Crash.
It fitted his Monster very well but is unlikely to fit on a SS frame

well I have a 916 tank now and it feels half the weight (minus pump) of the 600 SS one in my other hand. Juts have to work out how the hell to fit it!!

Standard for what? ;) it is standard for 851, but not for a Monster. They use an internal fuel pump, but I ran it with a small external pump and extended the feed into the bottom of the tank. It is still sat in my garage ready to be re-listed in the spring.

Bolt the hole at the back of the tank to the flat bit of frame over the shock (with a rubber spacer to block it up a bit), and make a bracket up at the front (that will be the tricky bit!).

doing the opposite - or the tank finishes 6 inches in front of the headstock - but we'll see how it comes out using my new Mig ;)

You'll have to spread your legs wide if you mount it the opposite way ;)