soon rectify that next friday night

Lets go from the Corney and Barrow to the home of The Slut on Friday night - we'll soon have it all sorted out.

And Jim can buy us pizza - nice one ;)

Desmondo,

the direction of the floor joists will dictate the method of temporary support required

Traditional floorboards are laid 90deg to the direction of the joists. Lift the carpet upstairs in both rooms either side of the wall, if the Boards run parallel with the wall - solution 1, if perpendicular - solution 2.

If you have a newer house with sheet flooring you will need to look a bit closer - check the nailing pattern, this will tell you which way the joists run.

Solution 1 - the joists will either be embedded in the wall (bearing) or sitting in joist hangers which will be built in. If you prop the joists either side of the wall the weight from the wall above will be transfered through the joists and down your propping to the gound floor. The ground floor will accept the loads because in this instance the loads will not be very high. To be safe you will need to use a sole plate and head head rail. Place the sole plate (6x3 timber or similar) on the floor parallel with the wall for the length of the proposed new opening plus a bit each side and as close as possible to the wall - but so you can demolish the wall and get access to install the new steel beam, . Get yourself some number 1 props and position them on the sole plate at about 1.2m centres. Place a head plate (6x3 timber or similar as per the sole plate) on the tops of the acrows below the ceiling and with some old carpet or something above it (so it does'nt damage the ceiling). Wind up the acrows and put some preload in them to counter settlement. Repeat for the other side of the wall.

Demolish the wall from the top middle working your way down and along at the same time untill you have enough room to install your new beam. You do not need to remove all the wall at this stage. When demolishing work to brick or block bed joints and if the construction permits you should be able to get the top flange of your beam tight on the underside of the joists. Use a couple of extra acrows to hold it in place with a bit of preload whilst you securely pack the bearings. These are two small pockets that you will need to cut at either end of the opening. Old roof slates are often used for this. Any loose brick/blockwork above the new beam needs to be removed and any voids dry packed with a strong dry mix of sand and cement (1:2 - 1:3). Release the tension in the temporary supports check the new beam has settled ok and is secure - remove the propping. Continue with the wall removal below the new beam - do not demolish the wall under the bearings!!!!!!!

Warning, if the existing wall is quite friable do not install the beam at this stage demolish the whole section of wall first, then rebuild the wall (new piers) under the bearings in good quality brickwork before installing the new beam.

Solution 2 - more complicated - If solution 1 cannot work because of the joist layout let me know and will elaborate.

Remember, the ground floors on either side of the wall may not be at the same level.

I think thats about it - any questions let me know.

Bob

Good stuff.:cool:

Would that be Bob the builder.

can we fix it.....................

Bob that will never work!

You don't mention anything about beer and pizza, clearly I'm the more knowledgable person on this matter!

:lol:

you could always replace the props with empty beer cans stacked neatly and replace the timbers with empty pizza boxes :P

Would you need to pre-crush the cans to gain more strength?

'Would you need to pre-crush the cans to gain more strength?'-of course you would Tony you silly boy, but it's got nothing to do with gaining strength-crushed beercans take up much less room, ergo you will need more of them-therefore loads more drinking-result.:lol: Hic!

John