Probably a wise move my friend, I know what you mean.

Forgot to ask the other obvious question about if you have an alarm etc on the bike that may have malfunctioned or is pulling the battery down?

With the new battery on it might be wise to check out the voltage regulator asap if you have a multimeter.

Good luck (cleaning those connections) Frank

I agree that jump-starting with a (running or non-running) larger capacity automobile battery won’t harm your Ducati. It’s indifferent to the source of 12 volts supplied to its terminals. The only difference is the ability of a larger capacity battery to deliver a higher current and longer durations, i.e. repeated starting attempts.

I suppose if you left the cables connected for a long period of time after you started the bike, you could encounter higher regulator temperatures, but as a practical matter this isn’t a concern.

I don’t know the exact specs on the Ducati starter motor, but in general, motorcycle-size starter motors draw around 30 amps under no load (max rpm) and around 85 amps under typical starting torque loads for unmodified motors. However, this figure can briefly rise to 300 amps under a stall condition typical of the initial start requirements of a high compression motor.

If you look at the wiring running to the starter motor you’ll see that Ducati made a trade-off between cost and weight vs. electrical resistance. The higher the resistance, the lower the current that is delivered to the starter motor and the more electrical heating of the wiring. The lower the current delivered, the harder it will start.

Sizing the battery and starter cables for at least 100 amps seems more reasonable to me. A number of 996R owners have reported easier starting after they replaced these wires with a larger gauge.

But before you replace any wiring, first check the circuit for points of high resistance, Corrosion at the connection to the starter motor is the prime suspect because water often collects in the rubber boot covering the connection. Clean the connection anyway and then fill the boot with dielectric grease to keep the water out.

When a battery nears the end of its life, often the voltage across its terminals will measure 12 volts or so, but it can’t deliver sufficient current to turn the starter motor so all that you get is a solenoid click.

Finally, the technique to connect jumper cables needs clarification.

The last connection that you make will generate a spark. This connection can be made to the chassis (earth) of EITHER vehicle but only at a location physically distant from the hydrogen gas contained in both batteries.

Not wanting to go on about it again too much
(eg check this post http://www.ducatisportingclub.com/xm...5036#pid130663)
_but_ the weakest connections on many ducs are the angled brackets on the battery terminals.
They are simply cheapskate for something so important, and _will_ cause too much voltage drop when starting if they are even slightly loose.

re starter prob
 

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roll:

Battery arrived this morning which I swiftly fitted on and then nervously pushed the button and nothing!:( But there was a difference the same click but then followed by the fuel injection whining slightly... pushed the button again and nothing but still got the noise off the injection system. Tryed once more and it started:puzzled:
So whereas Im chuffed to bits its going again Im now worried that the same problem will happen again in the future given I still dont actually know what caused it in the first place. Get the feeling though that it just has to be a bad connection so Im getting the grease and WD40 out this weekend with a wire brush and clean/tighten everything up!!!
Still gotta look on the bright side its working and Ive got a nice spare battery now :lol:

Glad thats its started at last for you!

I dont think many batteries come fully charged - maybe a charge / optimiser session might help as well.

Derek has suggested some other things to try in this post:

http://www.ducatisportingclub.com/xm...6325#pid144471

As your bike is still under warrenty - i think it really is time to get it booked in - just depends how comfortable you are working on the bike versus how much time / resources you have.

Reading between all the lines the culprits 'could be'

Battery (hopefully ruled out)
Earth and other connections - quite a few to check out.
Starter solenoid
Starter motor

You seem to hint the FI motor didnt sound quite right as well - another for the list.

Plus - sometimes, new spark plugs can cheer up a poorly bike.

Good luck - Frank

Did you give the battery an extra charge before you fitted it?
You will need to keep the new battery topped up with charge in future.
So...............socket in garage,Optimate permanant lead on bike,plug in when bike not in use.

That is all!;):D:D:D

Battery fault finding
 

OK. I am a battery/battery charger engineer and i'd like to weigh in with my 4p worth.... It's VERY unlikely that you will do any damage jump starting from a car engine provided the bike and car have the same battery voltage (12v), but some delicate electronics can be damaged if the cars engine is running - it's VERY rare though. I've known CAR electronics to be blown doing this due to a faulty BIKE regulator stuffing a voltage spike back up the jump leads! Best advice is to use the car battery to jump the bike WITH THE CAR IGNITION OFF.

BTW Car batteries have a signicantly higher capacity than bikes so can crank for longer - SO BE SENSIBLE. Don't hold the starter button in for ages and allow the cables to cool off if they start to get warm.

FAULT FINDING: If you measure a battery and it gives approx +12v but all you get is a click when you press the starter button, connect the voltmeter directly to the battery (not the connectors on the end of the leads but directly to the battery terminals themselves) THEN press the starter button. If the battery has a high impedence (ie it's knackered) the terminal voltage will collapse. Time for a new battery. If the battery voltage barely changes then no current is being drawn and the problem lies elsewhere.

This is a more accurate method than the old "see if your lights go out when you press the starter" method. Your lights will go out if the battery is duff OR if you have a bad connection.

try this
 

i've had the same problem on and off. I've replaced bat, and checked connections. But it still sometimes happens.
I'm planing to replace the starter solenoid with a better one, based on this article.

Try this http://www.ducatisuite.com/startersolenoid.html

I actually used one from a Mini1000 !!!

http://www.users.waitrose.com/~paso/parts.htm#Electrics